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Island Guide to Maui, Hawaii

August 14, 2022

When you’re invited to a Hawaii destination wedding, you go. My cousin recently had her wedding on Maui, and given my relocation to France, I wasn’t sure I was going to be able to make it. If you look at France on the map, Hawaii is literally on the other side of the globe. I mean, c’mon! But I can’t turn down getting invited to a Hawaii wedding and having the opportunity to enjoy time with the whole extended family. So, we made quite the adventure of it, especially given the wild state of airport cancelations and delays. But four flights later, one missed flight, one hotel stay and 40-something hours later, I made it to Maui. We were able to spend an entire week on the island, and here are some of my top things to do in Maui, Hawaii.

This post may include affiliate links. Full disclaimer.

Where we stayed

When you’re traveling with a party of 8, you need space, and space comes at a premium in Hawaii. While the Montage and the Westin offer luxurious views directly on the beach, they come at a hefty price. Given our large party size and limited budget, we opted for a condo a little further from the water at Ka’anapali Plantation condos in Lahaina. We appreciated the modern touches and patio — and just a 5- or 10-minute drive from the beach.

Rent a car

You cannot do Hawaii well unless you rent a car. There’s so much to do all over Maui, and you can drive for hours and still be on Maui. I didn’t realize it would be as big as it was, but having a car made it manageable. You can rent a car directly at the Kahului airport (OGG) on Maui.

Downtown Paia

I didn’t realize the sheer size of Maui and that there would be many small towns to explore. And one spot to add to your list of things to do in Maui is the town of Paia, which is on the northern side of the island. Paia is filled with cute boutiques, trendy coffee shops and snow cones that will make you melt. I’ve rounded up some of my favorite activities to do in and near Paia.

Maui Sunriders

When I heard “26-mile bike ride,” I wasn’t so sure. I like being active, but I’m not the sportiest of girls. Yet Maui Sunriders’ Downhill Self-Guided Bike Tour was well-rated on Trip Advisor, so we gave it a go. I don’t have the best hand-eye-foot coordination, but I had no problem on this gorgeous bike ride. We started at the bike shop where we had a safety briefing and then hopped in a van to drive up the volcano. Our tour guide was quick to answer our questions about biking and the island as we went up the volcano.

After our short drive, he dropped us off and fitted us on our bikes. Lucky for us, it’s a downhill bike ride, which means I barely pedaled. The Maui Sunriders’ bike tour was an amazing way to soak up the Hawaiian countryside with its lush foliage, rolling fields and delightful flora. I remember coasting along the relatively empty road and inhaling deeply to fill my lungs with the sweet floral perfumes along the way. We stopped along the way to say hello to farm horses and chickens strolling about.

The bike tour stops along several cute towns where you can grab a bite or do some light shopping. I love that it was self-paced because my family and I were able to go at our own speed. Once we started rolling, we spent about 2 hours completing the bike tour. Biking down the Haleakala Volcano was one of my favorite memories from my time in Maui.

Better Things

Just steps away from the Maui Sunriders shop sits this trendy coffeeshop. When we arrived to our bike tour 40 minutes early (thanks, Dad), they recommended that we head over there while we wait. Better Things offers açai bowls, fancy coffee drinks and gluten-free goodies. Oh, and avocado toast! We stopped here multiple times during our time in Maui.

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shaved Ice

When it comes to dessert, I’m an ice cream girl through and through. And when it comes to ice cream, I prefer the richer flavors such as chocolate, caramel and Nutella and less so fruity flavors. But Hawaii is the land of fruit, so when in Hawaii “do as the locals” briefly became my motto. On the plane ride to Kahului, we sat next to a local from Maui, and we asked him the best things to do. And Ululani’s Hawaiian Shaved Ice was on his list of best things to do in Maui.

I’ve eaten many snow cones in my day. Heck, I even had a snow cone maker as a child. And in my humble opinion, 9 out of 10 snow cones are about the same in terms of quality. It’s ice and syrup; what’s so difficult? I don’t know what Ululani’s does differently, but their snow cones were indeed superior. The texture and consistency were soft and had the right amount of syrup. If eating snow cones is on your list of things to do in Maui, Ululani’s is the one to try.

Lima Cocina and Cantina

After we finished our Maui Sunriders bike tour, our group wanted a bite to eat. The guides at Maui Sunriders recommended Lima Cocina and Cantina, a Peruvian restaurant next to the bike shop in Paiia. Lima is a tastefully decorated and classy restaurant with fresh fish and thoughtfully prepared dishes. And we had a coupon from Maui Sunriders, too! The food was good, but I felt a tad underdressed after a 2-hour bike ride. In retrospect, Lima is a great spot for date night or drinks.

The Shoppe by Hale Zen

During our time in Maui, we browsed multiple shops, but The Shoppe by Hale Zen remains my favorite. They offer stylish home decor such as candles and tableware and thoughtful jewelry, including the darling tortoise shell hoops I purchased there.

Downtown Lahaina

Located on the western side of Maui, Lahaina is a town sure to charm you with its close location to beaches and mega resorts. Lahaina also has a wide array of shops to peruse. Here’s a roundup of what we enjoyed doing in Lahaina.

Cool Cat Cafe

If you’re looking for a casual spot to grab a quick bite, the Cool Cat Cafe is calling your name. We enjoyed their burgers and sandwiches, so much so that we returned during our visit. We were also delighted that Cool Cat Cafe had gluten-free buns for our Celiac bunch.

Eat a Dole Whip

Like I’ve said, when in Hawaii, do as the Hawaiians. And Dole Whip is the big kahuna of the land. This soft-served pineapple ice cream can be found all over Maui, but we were able to taste some refreshing Dole Whip at Lahaina Ice Cream Parlour. Order your Dole Whip in a cup or cone and maybe even sprinkle it with real pineapple to enjoy as you browse downtown Lahaina shops.

Shop at the Maui Pineapple Store

In the same vein, after eating your Dole Whip at Lahaina Ice Cream Parlour, head next door to the Maui Pineapple Store. This store has all the pineapple-themed memorabilia you could ever wish for. They also sell Camp Craft Cocktails; these mason jars filled with dried fruits and ingredients become DIY cocktails once you add alcohol.

Walk along Kapalua Coastal Trail

Although the beach is certainly on your list of things to do in Maui, you may want a break from being in the water. The Kapalua Coastal Trail is a beautiful walk-meets-hike along the ocean. It’s accessible for all levels and guides you along stunning views in Kapalua. There’s free (very limited) parking, and the walk takes you right past the beautiful Montage resort and to volcanic rock juxtaposing the Pacific.

Brunch at Waicoco

When on vacation, we brunch. If you’re looking for a scrumptious brunch array with stunning views, look no further than brunch at Waicoco located at the Westin. We enjoyed brunch after surf lessons with a large part of my extended family. At Waicoco, you can try one of the Hawaii “classics” called the Loco Moco, a beef patty and eggs on a bed of rice smothered in gravy.

Ka’anapali Surf Club

Although most of our group wasn’t brave enough to face the waves, Nem and Annalise sure were — they took surfing lessons at Ka’anapali Surf Club. They offer private and group lessons, which last 1.5 hours. During the lesson, the surf students had a quick debrief on the basics of surfing while on land, and then they hit the waves as a group. There was even a professional photographer who took photos of participants during the session, and you had the option to purchase them at the end. Their lesson easily had 20 people participants, and they took turns practicing on the waves. Be sure to check the waves forecast before you book your lesson. The day they had their lesson with the Ka’anapali Surf Club, the waves were very weak.

Black Rock Beach

If you’re headed to Maui, the beach is certainly on your itinerary, and our group loved Black Rock Beach, on the west side of the island. You can rent body boards, surfboards and umbrellas, which are essential in the extreme Hawaii sun. There’s a volcanic rock at the far side of the beach where you can jump into the deep turquoise water. It was a short drive from our condo in Lahaina and wasn’t wildly crowded.

Castaway Cafe

Our group had originally planned to go to another restaurant, but upon arrival, we realized their supposed gluten-free options were nonexistent. And that’s a big deal for a group with half of its members being gluten-intolerant. But we were “hangry” and looked for any restaurant that wasn’t too far from us and had some gluten-free options. We saw that the Castaway Cafe wasn’t too far, so we headed that way. It was a bit hidden, as you had to park and then walk toward the beach to find the restaurant.

The Castaway Cafe is actually the restaurant for the Maui Ka’anapali Villas and was located among its properties. Even still, it ended being great. The servers were extremely helpful with our gluten intolerances, and my pork nachos were packed with flavor. And we had beautiful ocean views and a great breeze at our tables. It wasn’t what we had planned, but everyone left satisfied.

Wailele Luau

When you think Hawaii, you most likely think hula dancing. We bought tickets to the Wailele Luau at the Westin, which had good ratings on TripAdvisor. The show included a buffet of Hawaiian food with unlimited Mai Tais, hula dancing in traditional dress and fire-knife dancers. They also had small vendors located at the venue with Hawaiian goods and was just steps away from the beach. The fire-throwing was very impressive, and we enjoyed talking to the couple who was also placed at our table.

Pizza Paradiso

This is by no means a Michelin-starred restaurant; on the contrary, it’s a total dive. But it seems to be well-loved by its community and also has something for everyone in the family. Pizza Paradiso is a casual joint serving up pizza (duh), kabobs, pita and Dole Whip. So it’s a little all over the place, but if you’re looking for a chiller option or even takeout, Pizza Paradiso is a great option. They had our hearts because they serve up gluten-free pizza, and that meant we visited Pizza Paradiso multiple times during our trip to Maui.

More helpful tips for Maui

Listen, I live on the Mediterranean Sea in Marseille, France; I know the sun well. But the Hawaii sun was another level. We religiously applied sunscreen, but I think the strong waves wiped that sunscreen off fairly quickly. Be sure to apply sunscreen amply and often because part of our group was burnt to a crisp despite multiple applications. Here are some of the helpful items we packed to keep up safe and stylish in Maui:

As for budgeting tips, I use the Bank of America Travel Rewards credit card as well as the American Express Delta credit card to earn points for my trips.

As wild as it was to travel from the other side of the world, I’m so grateful that my cousin’s wedding gave us a good excuse to explore part of Hawaii. From our stunning bike ride to our favorite beach, here are some of my favorite things to do in Maui.

You might also be interested in my guide to Oahu, Hawaii.

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TAPIF Recap: Thoughts on Teaching English in France for Two Years

April 25, 2022

After graduating with journalism and French degrees, I set out to find myself during a gap year in France. As part of the Teaching Assistant Program in France (TAPIF), I taught English lessons in French public schools for a year and then renewed for a second year. During my first year, I divvied up my 12-hour contract among three primary schools on the outskirts of Marseille on Tuesdays and Thursdays and taught six different grade levels in a total of 17 classrooms. For my second year, I was placed at one elementary school near Marseille’s center and taught in nine classrooms during my 12 hours. Despite both being at elementary schools in Marseille, my two years were entirely different. Here’s my TAPIF recap with its pros and cons, ups and downs.

What is TAPIF?

TAPIF stands for the Teaching Assistant Program in France. It recruits Americans to teach English in French public schools from October to April. The contract is for 12 hours each week, and assistants make about 785 euros net per month. I’ve already written about the visa process for TAPIF and how to succeed in your first few months of the program. But with two school years of teaching under my belt, I wanted to give a TAPIF recap on what my experience was truly like.

TAPIF recap: first year vs. second year

Honestly, the first year wasn’t great. Three schools and 17 classrooms during 12 hours is a joke. Many teachers didn’t really care that I was there; they graded their papers on the side or made me wait till they finished their math lesson, leaving us with just 15 minutes to have our English lesson. According to the TAPIF program, we are teaching assistants, not teachers. That means that the teachers are responsible for teaching the lesson and we assist. But during my first year, I did 90% of the work. Some teachers were better than others, but I worked my tail off the first year.

My second year of TAPIF was rien à voir with the first one, truly night and day. During my second year, I was placed in just one school that was classified as an EDIL school, which stands for Écoles d’Immersion en Langues. In essence, it means that the school’s goal is to become bilingual. For example, the teacher may teach history in French and math in English. This school had nine classrooms, so I had one hour with each class. And the classes who had teachers with special EDIL training received the additional three hours left in my contract.

My second year was so much better than the first for several reasons. First, I was wanted at the school. They valued English language instruction, and the teachers were respectful of my time and my presence at the school. And I was at one school, not three. This allowed me to create relationships with the staff and students. And during my second year, I was truly an assistant; I assisted the teachers who did most of the leg work in preparation. They also invited me to go on field trips with them. I had a sense of belonging here.

My schedule

When my parents heard I would only be working 12 hours a week, they laughed. Is that a real job? Every English assistant’s experience is different, but I felt plenty busy. Here’s a look at what my schedules were like during my two years.

My first year in TAPIF

In those 12 hours, I visited 17 classrooms for anywhere between 30–45 minutes during my first year. I had an immense amount of autonomy to plan my lessons, and the schools furnished me with additional resources like flashcards, books and worksheets.

I taught as young as Grande Section (about age 5) all the way up until CM2 (their 5th grade equivalent). Although lessons vary by age, my rough class outline would begin with having students ask each other “How are you?” And then they’d ask their neighbor so that everyone would have an opportunity to speak.

Next, we’d sing a song, which we would review weekly for a month or two. Think simple songs like “If You’re Happy and You Know It.” Next, we would review key vocab words from the song such as “happy,” “angry” and “sleepy.” The Super Simple website was a godsend with its easy songs, helpful worksheets and free resources. After our warm-up questions and song, we worked on different units such as family, numbers or food. After getting a good feel for the new words, we’d play a game like Pictionary or Charades. As repetitive as these lessons could be, it truly takes that much time to get it to stick, especially since the students only had English class once per a week. As far as the schedule portion of my TAPIF recap, the two days I worked were long days, but I also only worked two days per week. Can’t complain!

My First Year Schedule:
7:15 a.m. Take the bus to school
8:30 a.m. Teach morning classes (30-45 minutes each)
11:30 a.m. Lunch break and lesson plan
1:30 p.m. Teach afternoon classes until 4:30 p.m.

My second year in TAPIF

For my second year, I was also placed in Marseille but asked to be placed closer to home. As great as my two-day work week was the previous year, it was exhausting. So, for my second year, I worked Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays from 8:20 to 11:30 a.m. And even though it was four days instead of two, I enjoyed this schedule much more because it was sustainable and kept me in a good rhythm. On Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, I worked in three total classrooms for an hour each. And on Fridays, it was my EDIL day, so I spent the morning with two different classrooms for a longer amount of time. It was a day to reinforce what we’d learned and do a fun activity like baking cookies or making Valentine’s Day cards.

My Second Year Schedule:
7:45 a.m. Take the bus to school
8:20 a.m. Lead small group games in the preschool
9:20 a.m. Teach a class in the elementary school
10:20 a.m. Coffee break
10:30 a.m. Teach another class in the elementary school
11:30 a.m. Time to go home

Related: Looking for TAPIF lesson plan ideas? Download my free guide, 101 Classroom Ideas for TAPIF and TEFL.

Commuting

The TAPIF program places assistants all over France from big cities to small villages. I was delighted that I was placed in Marseille because it’s a big city, but that being said, Marseille is huge. I found a studio not far from Notre Dame de la Garde, but the closest metro was a solid 25- to 30-minute walk away. So for better or for worse, I relied on the bus.

My first year in TAPIF

My schools were in a rougher part of town, but I had already found the perfect studio apartment close to the city center of Marseille. That meant my commute each way could be as long as an hour and a half. Woof! On Tuesdays and Thursdays, I left my apartment a little after 7 a.m. to catch the bus and didn’t get home until around 6 p.m. The long commutes definitely weren’t ideal, but I made the most of it with podcasts and music. Oh, and when the weather was good, I was able to take the boat to one of my schools — it’s casual!

My second year in TAPIF

In my renewal application, I specifically asked to be closer to home because j’en avais marre with the commute. And thankfully, they obliged. I worked four days per week, so that meant commuting more often than the previous year. But it was a 20-minute bus ride, plus a 5- or 10-minute walk. It was much more manageable, and I don’t have any complaints for my second year.

Lunch

Two-hour lunch breaks sound like a dream, right? Well, yes and no. At the beginning of the lunch break, I would heat up my packed lunch and eat in the salle des maîtres, or the teachers’ room, with the other staff members. After about 30 minutes, I’d pull out my laptop and start planning for the next week. Having two hours in the middle of the day to regroup, take a deep breath and plan was very helpful. At the same time, having longer lunch breaks meant that the kids didn’t go home until 4:30 p.m. Honestly, I’d prefer the American style: a shorter lunch so that I could go home earlier.

I only experienced lunch at school during my first year of TAPIF because during my second year, I left right before lunch. That made my days feel much shorter and more manageable.

Environment

French schools are very different from American schools. After living in France for some time now, there are many things that I like better in France than in the United States. I’m a big fan of the mostly free healthcare, better work-life balance and multiculturalism. But French schools are not something I prefer. The American education system certainly has its flaws, but after two years of being in the French school system, I still disagree with their approach to education.

In the United States, the educational system often encourages children to be unique, to create and to innovate. Teachers become our mentors and even friends. In France, the children must color inside the lines and do as they’re told, period. Teachers are usually not your friends. For example, I would tell my students to color their paper green, and they would panic over whether to use a colored pencil or marker. Because they would be reprimanded for using the incorrect material. The French system tends to obsess over mechanical, minute details to obtain uniformity. In general, the American system tends to celebrate individualism and innovation.

My first year in TAPIF

I worked in REP and REP+ schools, or schools that receive extra help from the government due to their disadvantaged status. This meant I worked in rougher neighborhoods and taught students who often lacked stability or even necessities. The schools had few resources beyond the basic chalkboard, pencil, paper and maybe a white board. You were lucky if the school had any type of projector. As in any country, working in an impoverished neighborhood comes with its own set of challenges, and France was no exception. I’m grateful for this experience, but at times, it wasn’t easy in terms of lesson planning or even classroom management.

Some of the children’s teeth were rotting, they had holes in their clothes and complained of hunger. There were children in my kindergarten class who couldn’t count in French, let alone English. There were so many extenuating factors that made English a back-burner issue.

The frustrating thing was that not all teachers saw the value of having a TAPIF assistant in their classrooms and didn’t make it a priority. Sometimes I spent half of my 30-minute window just waiting for the teacher to finish their math lesson. The schools gave me a lot of autonomy to plan lessons, which was a plus, but given my lack of teaching experience, I was at a loss sometimes for how to organize everything.

Many teachers gossiped about, screamed at or insulted their students regularly. I don’t have a problem with strict teachers, but I felt that some of these teachers were simply mean and did not genuinely care about their students.

Despite the teachers who more or less pushed me aside, I did have some amazing teachers who were very good to me. I had one school with whom I got along very well, and they were so excited to have me there. There, I was able to teach the “Cha Cha Slide,” play Two Truths and a Lie and genuinely laugh with my students.

My second year in TAPIF

Night and day, I tell you. During my second year of TAPIF, I still wasn’t in an extremely rich neighborhood, but there was much more stability to the family structure. I loved the diversity of the student body; I had students from France, Turkey, Romania, Kurdistan, Algeria, Portugal and Libya. Of course, there was still the French mentality of coloring within the lines and following the rules. But even when the teachers were strict, I know they truly cared about their students. They were much more gentle with their kids and used discipline when necessary. They were much less harsh and created relationships with their students.

The teachers invited me on their field trips, and two times I was able to join their boat trips on the Mediterranean. I felt appreciated and respected and valued. I cannot express how much better my second year was in comparison to my first.

The salary

In any TAPIF recap, you’ll hear about the salary, as you should. Unless you’re in D’outre mer like Guadeloupe or La Réunion, everyone makes the same 785 euros net per month. Yes, even in Paris. You don’t need to be a rocket scientist to know that $800 per month won’t get you far.

Here’s what’s complicated: in terms of hourly wages, it’s very well paid. From the beginning of October to the end of April, there’s about 30 weeks. But about every six weeks, you get two weeks of school vacation, for a total of 8 weeks during the program. And you’re paid the same every month whether you work all four weeks or just two. If you do the math for 12 hours for 22 weeks of teaching, that’s a total of about 264 hours during your entire contract. Roughly, that ends up being a rate of about 20 euros net per hour, which is nearly three times the hourly minimum wage.

But you’re not allowed to get a second job. The handbook says you can babysit or tutor on the side, but getting an official job on the side isn’t permitted. So even though the hourly rate is good, the monthly salary is nearly impossible to live on by itself. Especially because many people do this program in order to travel during the school vacations and to experience France to the fullest. I worked the summer before I started the program and saved a crazy amount of money so that I could enjoy my time abroad.

Here’s how I budgeted and saved up $7,000 before I left for TAPIF.

TAPIF recap: Is this program for me?

The TAPIF program is highly disorganized, and there’s very little oversight in the day-to-day activities. To succeed in this program, you need to be independent. Opening a bank account, apartment hunting and dealing with French administration demand energy and determination. There’s very little teacher training, and making friends in a foreign country is no simple task. If you’re someone who needs their hand held, this isn’t a good program for you. Because so much of this program is autonomous.

I didn’t have a prof référent because I was placed in primaire, but I was assigned a conseillère pédagogique, who was assigned to many assistants across many schools. And I saw my conseillère pédagogique maybe five or six times total during my two contracts. I know other assistants who had amazing profs référents who helped them along the way, but I can’t say the same for my conseillère pédagogique because she was responsible for many assistants.

But Kristin, why did you renew if it was disorganized and not sustainably paid? Great question. As many bones as I have to pick with this program for its lack of oversight, limited assistance for its employees and low salaries, it was still worth it. TAPIF allowed me to live in France, to engage with the culture and improve my French. No, I wasn’t paid a lot, but I also didn’t work a lot. I renewed because I fell in love with France and wasn’t ready to leave. Yes, there are other ways to stay, but TAPIF is very uncompetitive and a simple way to secure a visa.

TAPIF recap overview

Listen: the program has its flaws, and it’s not for everyone. But TAPIF was an amazing way for me to live abroad, improve my French and to experience the culture firsthand. Teaching English certainly isn’t my passion, but I’m extremely grateful for the experience, specifically the second year. The first year was challenging, but I only taught two days per week, so I pushed through. The second year was truly a joy as I loved my co-workers and my school. Whether you want to teach or not at all, TAPIF is an option worth considering for those who want to experience the thrill of living abroad and to improve their French.

Other helpful posts:

How I Applied for My TAPIF Visa

How to Teach English Abroad in France

What to Do During Your First Months of TAPIF

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City Guide to Nîmes and Aigues-Mortes, France

April 16, 2022

My dad always said, “It’s not what you know but who you know.” And when it comes to travel, it’s no different. In September 2020, I moved to Marseille, France, to teach English and have enjoyed exploring France’s gems from Bordeaux to Nice. But France has a geographically rich and diverse country with thousands of corners to explore. And thanks to my teaching program, I know several other assistants in France whom I can visit. My university friend Nandi is teaching in Nîmes, and although this town wasn’t at the top of my bucket list, I’m always down to explore a new place, especially with a friend. In this post, I’m sharing things to do in Nîmes as well as our day trip to Aigues-Mortes in La Camargue.

This post may include affiliate links. Disclaimer.

About Nîmes, France

With a current population of about 150,000, the town of Nîmes, France, used to be a part of the Roman Empire under the rule of Emperor Augustus. The history of Nîmes dates back to the sixth century B.C. When you think of France, most people think of architecture as seen in the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and Haussmannien style buildings with wrought-iron gates in front of tall windows. (At least I do.) And you’ll see some of that in Nîmes, but what’s so crazy is that you’re walking by a boulangerie for a croissant and then 10 minutes later you bump into a Roman ruin. It feels incongruous, but the wild part is that this part of France used to belong to the Roman Empire.

Things to Do in Nîmes

L’Impérial Café

If you’re looking for a cute yet casual French restaurant, add L’Impérial Café to your list of things to do in Nîmes. I ordered their raclette burger with perfectly seasoned, crispy steak fries. The restaurant is located on a cute square and will hit the spot in between all your Roman ruins stops.

La Dolcezza

If you’ve been following this blog for any amount of time, you know I have the biggest sweet tooth, especially when it comes to ice cream. So when I was looking for things to do in Nîmes, naturally ice cream was near the top of the list. Nandi and I saw Amorino, an ice cream chain, nearby, but we also spotted La Dolcezza, a local spot, not far away. And I’m so glad we switched it up with a local spot because La Dolcezza was entirely delightful.

Jardins de la Fontaine

Looking for the best picnicking spot in Nîmes? Look no further than Jardins de la Fontaine. This massive park is sure to charm you with its thoughtful architecture. Although the park dates back to the mid 1700s, it’s nestled by several Roman ruins including the Temple de Diane et the Tour Magne. Nandi, Bastien and I enjoyed a casual stroll through the park.

Temple de Diane

One of the reasons I love France so much is because of it’s rich history and patrimoine. And Nîmes is rich with these historical allusions all throughout the town, the Temple de Diane being one. Little is known for sure about the Temple de Diane, but we do have some guesses. Per History Hit, it may have been constructed during Augustus’ rule or in the 100s A.D. And it might’ve been a library, not a temple. You can make a stop here when you visit the Jardins de la Fontaine and make a guess for yourself. Nandi, Bastien and I enjoyed walking around these ruins and imagining what life was like thousands of years ago.

Tour Magne

Ah yes, another big pile of important rocks to see. La Tour Magne dates back to 16 B.C. and was built under Emperor Augustus. The tower had military purposes, thanks to its elevated position, but later served as a telegraph relay station in the 1800s. You can walk through the Jardins de la Fontaine and up the hill to reach Tour Magne. It’s a beautiful walk to get there, and it’s worth the steps.

Les Arènes de Nîmes

No, it’s not the Colosseum, but it sure does look like it. Fun fact: the Colosseum was built a couple decades before the Arènes de Nîmes, which were built around 100 A.D. and could welcome around 24,000 attendees. Nandi and I didn’t have the time to go in but walked the perimeter. You can’t take a trip to Nîmes without stopping by the Arènes de Nîmes; it’s pretty difficult to miss.

Maison Carrée

Before I visited Nîmes, I did some research about the town, and I was shook to see that it was known for its Maison Carrée, something that came straight out of the Antiquities between 20 and 12 B.C. It truly looks like something you’d find in Italy, not southern France, but it was inspired by the Apollon and Mars Ultor temples in Rome, according to Avignon & Provence.

Things to do in Aigues-Mortes

How to get to Aigues-Mortes from Nîmes

Although Nîmes has several cool sites to offer, it’s pretty small, and you’re so close to La Camargue wetlands that you might as well take a day trip to nearby Aigues-Mortes. It’s very simple to get from Nîmes to Aigues-Mortes. Simply take the TER train, and the journey takes around 45 minutes. And once you hop off the train at Aigues-Mortes, you’re not far from the main attractions. There’s no need to have a car, and most is accessible by foot. Here are several things to do in Aigues-Mortes.

Castle ramparts and Tower of Constance

Like I said, I like old things. I like to imagine about the life people lived long ago, and therefore, I enjoyed poking around the city ramparts. Nandi and I walked the perimeter of the fortress’ wall, which is over a mile long. And the monument has information, videos, photos and maps all along the route.

As part of the ramparts, the Tower of Constance once served as a prison for French Huguenots, or Protestants, after the Edict of Nantes was revoked in 1685. But before, Aigues-Mortes became a place of oppression for the Protestants, it was deemed as a safe haven for Protestants under the Edict of Beaulieu in 1576.

As a person of faith myself, this was a special place to visit in remembrance of my spiritual fathers and mothers in France who paved the way for freedom of worship. I’m so grateful that I have the right and freedom to pursue my faith and spirituality without fear of imprisonment.

Enjoy the pink salt marshes

Pink water? Sign me up! I’m a pink girl through and through, so when I saw that the salt marshes were pink, I was sold. My favorite view was from the city’s ramparts. What makes the salt marshes pink? We had the same question. It’s because of the pink algae in the marshes.

Église Notre Dame des Sablons d’Aigues-Mortes

I’ve been into, like, 8,673 churches in Europe — or something like that. But although Église Notre Dame des Sablons d’Aigues-Mortes is small and similar to most others, I was struck by its unique stained glass windows. It’s worth it to take a peek into this small church just steps away from Place Saint Louis.

Take a boat tour

Another great way to spend your stay in Aigues-Mortes is to take a boat tour. Although Nandi and I weren’t able to do a boat tour, there are several to choose from if you’d like to explore by water.

Place Saint Louis

It’s honestly funny that I’m from Saint Louis, Missouri because this saint is everywhere in France, yet the average Saint Louisan can’t speak a lick of French. Saint Louis was a big deal in Aigues-Mortes because it was he who ordered the creation of the ramparts in 1266. And there’s a square named after him. Place Saint Louis is a quaint square where you can find restaurants with the regional specialty of taureau, or bull.

Two days is plenty of time to explore both of these spots. Travel back in time as you visit Nîmes and Aigues-Mortes with their Roman ruins and ramparts. Did I miss one of your favorite things to do in Nîmes or Aigues-Mortes? Tell me in the comments.

You might also be interested in my city guides to Marseille and Nice.

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How I Got a Job in France (Not Teaching English)

March 30, 2022

When I moved to France in September 2020, I planned to stay for my 7-month teaching assistant contract. By then, my gap year would have inspired me in my next steps, and I would return to the United States to start my “real” adult life. Well, that’s not exactly how it played out. During my first TAPIF teaching contract, I couldn’t bear the thought of leaving and reapplied for a second year. I worked as an au pair during the summer between the two school years. Now as my second (and final year) of teaching is winding down, I’m still not ready to go back to the States. After lots of interviews and networking, I’m excited to announce that I’ve accepted a job that’s sponsoring my visa once I finish my teaching contract— and the new job isn’t teaching English. I wanted to share my experience about how I got a job in France that’s not teaching English as well as some job hunting tips for English speakers in France.

But first things first

Before we dive head first into my job hunting process and my tips, I want to underscore that I am not an expert. I am simply sharing my personal experience about how I was able to find a job that sponsored my visa as an American. And that being said, paperwork and logistics are still in the process. I’m not able to provide legal advice, but my heart in sharing this post is to inspire and to share what happened to work for me.

Is it hard to get a job in France?

It’s hard but not impossible.

“French companies don’t want to sponsor visas for Americans.” “You’ll have to be an English teacher.” “You need a master’s.” “You need to marry a French person.” “You need to make enough freelance income to prove that you make the SMIC (minimum wage).” The moment you tell people that you’re an American looking for a job in France, you’re met with the boilerplate response: “It’s not possible.” I’m in several Americans in France groups on Facebook, and this is a common topic met with immediate disappointment.

But it’s just not true. I will be honest and say that you have to work a heck of a lot harder to find a job in France as a non-European. It is not for the faint of heart. I cried a lot, prayed a lot and doubted myself a lot. And had many a counseling session. Because of many people’s natural pessimism, I kept quiet throughout the job search process. It’s extremely vulnerable to be in job-searching mode, and the last thing I need is some internet troll telling me I’m stupid for even trying.

But last week, I received my autorisation de travail, meaning I have the right to work.

It’s true that when hiring a non-European, French companies are required to do more paperwork and pay more fees. It is harder. But it is not impossible. If you’re committed to living in France, buckle up because you’re in for a ride. I stopped keeping track of how many rejection emails I got, but I did get a yes. And one yes is all it takes.

My job search wishes

I graduated from the University of Missouri with journalism and French degrees. Upon graduation, I took a little detour by doing two years of TAPIF, an English teaching assistant program, to be able to live in France. I had no desire to be an English teacher long term, and I still don’t. I’m grateful that the program allowed me to follow my dream of living abroad, but I’m surer than ever that I don’t want to teach.

My background is in magazine journalism. I love editing, writing, interviewing, creating and communicating. And I was set on staying in or near Marseille. My life, my friends, my chéri, my church and my livelihood are here. (There are way more job opportunities for anglophones in Paris, but I wasn’t willing to move that far right now.)

Although I’m fluent in French, I’m not a native speaker. Just because a person grew up in the United States doesn’t mean they’re a good writer; the same goes for any other language. Although I’ve honed my journalistic writing skills in English, being a journalist in France is another ballgame. (I’m sure it’s possible, but it’s not a path I decided to pursue.) So, I ruled out working for francophone media. Instead, I spent my job search looking for communications-related positions and really any position that needed a native English speaker near Marseille.

My job offer

After months of interviewing and applying, I finally accepted a job with a company that specializes in international student exchanges. They help French students go to the United States to study abroad or work as an au pair. I’ll be helping manage their au pair program, running their social media accounts and building their site in English.

We have a good family friend whose father-in-law started this company, and I met with the people at the company four times over the course of four months before I received an official offer. Even though my teaching contract didn’t finish until the end of April, I reached out to this company around November. Starting early can be frustrating because many companies are looking for people immediately, but it can’t hurt to introduce yourself, send your CV and share your interest.

Because I’m fluent in French and I’ve been living in Marseille for over a year, this process was simpler. My bilingualism was a big help in applying for jobs. And the fact that I was already in France while looking for a job meant that I could easily meet with the company.

Best tips for finding jobs for English speakers in France

If you’re a non-European English speaker looking to find a job that sponsors your visa in France, this section is for you. Again, I’m no legal expert, and unfortunately, there’s no one streamlined process. The French administration doesn’t make sense and doesn’t follow the same pattern. But I want to share some of the strategies that have worked for me and my fellows expats.

Translate your CV into French

One of the first things you should do is translate your resume into French. I had my French boyfriend help me translate mine line by line. And we also added a headshot, which tends to be very important on French resumes. When I sent out my resume, I always sent it in both English and French. I printed out a big stack, and before any networking meeting, I’d pack a copy to hand out.

If you know a francophone who could help you translate your CV, that’s a great starting point. If you don’t have that luxury, here’s an article on best tips and recommendations for translation services. Or take a look at freelance translators on Upwork. Translating your CV is not a step to skip.

Scour online job listings and create alerts

Praise the Lord for the internet. There are so many job opportunities to be found online. Head to the job boards on LinkedIn, Indeed, PACA Job, Welcome to the Jungle, etc. I created alerts for several different categories: communications, marketing, bilingual and English speaker terms. This is how my American friend Bianca found a job in the travel industry to sponsor her visa: simply by applying to jobs she found on Indeed.

Teach abroad

Okay, yes, the title of this post details my journey in finding a job that isn’t teaching English. But that being said, it’s one of the easiest ways to move abroad as a native anglophone. After two years of teaching with the TAPIF program, I am grateful for my experience because it allowed me to live abroad. During my two years, I was able to make connections, improve my French and establish myself. And it was a good trial period to see if I wanted to live in France longer term.

When I moved to France to teach, I always knew it would be temporary. I used these two years of teaching as a launch pad to my career as I saw value in growing my intercultural and language skills. If you’re a native English speaker, don’t immediately rule out teaching. At least it gets your foot in the door and helps you start your life abroad. I wrote an entire post on the specifics of how you can find a teaching job in France.

Get a master’s

Many blogs and expats will tell you that you have to have a master’s to be able to get a job in France. But my rebuttal is that it all depends on your experience and what field you want to be in. Neither I nor my friend Bianca have a master’s, and we both secured visa-sponsoring jobs as Americans in France. But that being said, getting a student visa is fairly simple, and earning your master’s in France can be affordable compared to American university prices. And the student visa in France allows you to work part-time.

Getting a master’s degree in France is another way to establish yourself, improve your language skills and make connections that may lead to jobs. And once you complete a master’s, you’re automatically eligible for the “recherche d’emploi/création d’entreprise” visa, which gives you one year to find a job or create your business.

Fellow American bloggers Jalen and Maria have a blog where they publish articles on how they’re pursuing their master’s in France and working while studying through alternance.

Network, network, network

My dad always said, “It’s not what you know, it’s who you know.” And there is much truth to be told in this saying. Putting a face to the name, and not simply bopping into someone’s inbox, makes a difference. My friend Bianca casually mentioned she met someone on Bumble BFF who works at one of the largest companies in Marseille. As I was job searching, I remembered and asked her if she could introduce us. Next thing you know, I’m grabbing lunch at Pitaya with Bianca’s friend. I handed my resume over to this friend of a friend, who then sent over my info to the HR department.

I’m currently working at an elementary school, which has next to nothing in common with my desired career trajectory. But I’ve created bonds with the teachers and proved myself to be a hard worker. I talked with some of the teachers about my goals and asked if I could network with their spouses. And after chatting with their spouses, I was recommended for several job positions. Don’t be afraid to reach out to any slight connection you may have.

Convert your diploma

Perhaps you’ve already earned your diploma in the United States or even another country and have no desire to continue your studies in France. But the problem is that education systems vary extensively. And French companies might not have a good grasp of your training. Enter ENIC-NARIC, a body that helps foreign diplomas to be recognized abroad. Here’s more information about how this program operates in France and how you can submit a request. In all honesty, I did not do this nor did I need to. But it could prove useful depending on your field.

Add personal touches

As in any job interview process in any country, going the extra mile can be what gets you the job. Here’s what I mean: I was raised to write thank you notes, especially after job interviews. After every interview, I sent a handwritten note to the person who met with me and thanked them for their time. I also sent copies of my magazine to several people at the company that hired me to show them my skillset. I’ve found that these extra touches go a long way, especially in France.

Don’t be shy

Job searching is vulnerable. It’s so tough to put yourself out there and to risk rejection, especially when you tell people of your dreams to work abroad. But if networking is often the key to success, it’s so important to reach out for help. Tell everyone and their mother that you’re looking for a job. Who knows? They might be looking for someone with your profile. Work with any and every connection you have.

I was extremely touched during my job search. Because as I started talking with teachers at school about it, they went above and beyond to help me. One teacher in particular connected me with her husband (who connected me with HR at his company) and offered to connect me with her American neighbor. Another teacher’s husband is an architect, which has truly nothing in common with my search. But he was willing to connect me with his colleagues. It’s hard to be helped if people don’t know you need it.

Take a French language test

Although being a native English speaker is a major plus, having some level of French will prove useful in your job search. An official French exam may not be required in your job application. But your potential employer will want to know your French level according to CEFR (Common European Framework of Reference for Languages).

Not sure what your French level is? It may be a good idea to take the DELF or DALF exam, which will correspond with these levels. Alliance Française is an international organization that offers French courses and administers these exams. And they have locations all over the world. I took a summer class with Alliance Française Dallas to keep my French sharp while I wasn’t in school. They’re internationally recognized and are a great option to improve your French level or take the DELF or DALF exam.

I didn’t need any formal documentation before I received my current job offer. But they were also able to gauge my French level throughout our multiple interviews.

Looking for easy ways to improve your French level? Here are some of my free resources.

Basic French for travelers (with worksheets)
50 Most common French verbs (with flashcards, printables and Quizlet)
French movies to help you learn French

What’s next in the process

I start my job this summer and have a two-month période d’essai (trial period) before my contrat de travail à durée indéterminée (work contract with no set end) can be validated. And although I received my autorisation de travail (work authorization), I just sent off my dossier (application) to renew my carte de séjour (my residence card). So lots of paperwork and still more hoops to navigate.

I am overwhelmed by how the Lord has provided for me over the past year and a half and blessed me every step of the way. Moving abroad during a pandemic in September 2020 was one of the scariest, hardest things I’ve done. But it’s been the most rewarding, enriching experience. I don’t know the future, but I do know that my life is in God’s hands. I pray that all goes well with paperwork and logistics.

It’s terrifyingly vulnerable to share about this as I’m still in the process. But I hope sharing my experience on how I got a job in France serves as an inspiration and hope for other English speakers looking to do the same.

You might also be interested in 6 Things Every Expat Needs.

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What I Miss Most about the U.S.A. When Abroad

February 8, 2022

When I moved from Missouri to Marseille, France, I thought it would be for just a school year. But then my teaching stint turned into au pairing for the summer and then back into another teaching stint. So all in all, my original plan to stay from October to April drastically changed. And now I’ve been in France for a year and a half. For years, living in France has been my dream, but that doesn’t mean I don’t miss life in the U.S.A. France is becoming more and more like home, but sometimes being far from my home home can be difficult. Here’s what I miss most about the U.S.A. while abroad and what I bring to France to remind me of home.

In America, I’m know as the girl who loves France. And in France, I’m known as the American girl. And sometimes it’s frustrating that I don’t completely fit into either culture; I feel stuck somewhere in between. I’ve adopted many French ways of life and conduct my life en français, but I can’t change the fact that I spent several decades of my life in America. And nor do I want to. Our upbringings and home cultures make us who we are, and that’s not a bad thing. I love my life in France and don’t plan on moving any time soon, but sometimes I miss Missouri and my life back in America. (I started a Facebook community for current, former and aspiring expats to be able to discuss all these things and support one another.) Here’s my humble attempt of creating a mix of my home and adopted cultures.

This post may include affiliate links. Full disclaimer.

Food

Yes, France is a global culinary capital, but sometimes I’m craving a fat cheeseburger on a gluten-free bun from Culver’s. I didn’t realize how much food makes me feel at home — or completely out of place. Some of the foods I miss the most from the U.S.A. are Mac n’ Cheese, peanut butter, Oreos but especially Mexican food.

Oh, and American style coffee. The French swear by espresso, and despite all my time living here, I just can’t get on the espresso train. I love black coffee, and I especially love it iced. But not only is black coffee not the norm here, but also iced black coffee takes dedication to find.

I’m also gluten-intolerant, which might as well by the 8th deadly sin in France. Bread is literally everywhere in France, and I do mean everywhere. As a whole, it has been way easier to eat gluten-free in America. Although eating gluten-free in France isn’t impossible, it’s certainly a hassle. In France, it can be seen as rude and excessive to order food with modifications. Even when I explain that I have a gluten allergy, I’m often met with a disgruntled and/or bewildered server.

How I bring America to France with food

One of the best ways to bring your culture abroad is to share it with locals. I’ve made kind, supportive friends here who love swapping cultural moments. I am a major fan of brunch, and that’s starting to pick up speed in France. I love suggesting brunch with friends and sharing my recipes for pancakes or coffee cake.

As for my coffee hankering — nay, dependence — I purchased a carafe like this one and a plastic Melitta pour-over cone and voilà. I make my coffee at the beginning of the week and pop it in the refrigerator. I’ve been able to find places in Marseille that will make an iced americano, café frappé or cold brew, but I like having a less expensive option at home. I love bringing Caribou Daybreak or Kaldi Highlander Grogg roasts from back home.

On extra hard days where being an expat feels lonely and frustrating, I like to treat myself to a burger. In Marseille, they have several Steak n’ Shake locations, and as simple and silly as it sounds, going for a cheeseburger and milkshake makes me feel more at home.

Coming from a country with 300-something million people, I am blessed to be able to find American brands in France. I’ve had luck finding American brands at Normal, where I found Sweet Baby Ray’s barbecue sauce; Monoprix’s foreign foods section; and online at My American Market.

TV series

When I moved to France, I was big into The Bachelor. But herein lies the problem: The Bachelor wasn’t available for streaming in France. Oh, what to do! And my Netflix options in America aren’t the same as in France. I also like keeping up on my local news back in Missouri, but many of these local news sites aren’t available to French readers. And Rakuten, the cashback plugin of my dreams, didn’t work in France.

How I bring America to France with TV

But I had heard of this magic thing called a VPN, or a virtual private network, that would allow me to watch my American shows, and I decided to try it out. And since I made my account with ExpressVPN, I haven’t looked back.

Here’s how ExpressVPN works. You pay about $8 per month for the service, and you download an app for your computer or phone. You simply open up the app and change your computer’s location to the United States, even though you may be in France or India or China. Activating your VPN is as simple as that! Once I changed my computer’s location as if it were in the U.S.A., I could access The Bachelor because my computer “thought” it was in the States. I didn’t have any major problems with my computer speed, and I was able to watch The Bachelor no problem. ExpressVPN works with Netflix, Amazon, Hulu, HBO and many other online services.

Using a VPN keeps your online activity private. And if you’re in a country that blocks access to Facebook or Google, you can bypass this censorship by changing your computer’s location. It can even help you find cheaper flights since companies don’t always show the same prices to all customers. If you’re a sports fanatic, having a VPN can allow you to watch your sporting events if they’re not available where you’ve moved.

Having earned a journalism degree, I still like to keep up on my local news in the United States. But many of my local news sites in Missouri are blocked in Europe. My ExpressVPN account allows me to access these news sites. I also love using plugins like Rakuten, which helps me earn cashback from my online purchases, but it’s blocked in France. With my VPN, I’m able to use Rakuten sans problem. If it’s not clear, I am a big fan of ExpressVPN, especially since it’s the same price as two Starbucks lattes per month.

Convenience

When people ask me what I miss most about the U.S.A., convenience is my boilerplate response. Everything is closed on Sundays. France is still insistent on using the old-fashioned mail system and is hesitant to make the switch to digital. Life moves at a much slower pace here.

It was quite the shock to go from driving my Nissan everywhere to taking public transportation everywhere. For me, the thrill of public transportation eventually wore off. It’s exhausting to always have to conform my life schedule to the bus’, especially when I live in an under-serviced area. And truth be told, this has and continues to be one of the most difficult adjustments.

How I bring America to France with convenience

Unfortunately, it’s not as easy to fit convenience into my suitcase next to my gluten-free Funfetti cake. But I’ve done my best to adapt to a slower pace of life while still finding ways to be my efficient American self. For example, I do most of my grocery shopping as online order and pick up at Carrefour. That doesn’t sound revolutionary, but in France, I’ve found it to be way less common. Online grocery shopping saves me loads of time and helps me stick to my budget.

I also spend a lot of time on my feet and on the bus. And I can’t change that, but I’ve tried to find ways to make this time more comfortable. I ditched the high heels and have invested in some quality, comfy sneakers and booties. As for my commutes, I always pack my earbuds and have started reading on the bus on the way to school. (I’m currently reading Gentle and Lowly by Dane Ortlund.)

Friends and family

Obviously, one of the hardest parts of moving abroad is uprooting your life and leaving familiarity and comfort that we’ve created with our family and friends. It’s difficult and just downright sucks moving to a place where no one knows you. And all of a sudden, there are three flights and an Uber ride between you and your bestie. I’m looking forward to my family finally being able to visit me for the first time this summer. (Thanks, Covid — not.) But in the meantime, I’ve found a few ways to keep these people close to my heart while abroad.

How I bring America to France with loved ones

Thank goodness for FaceTime! That’s an easy answer to be able to chat with friends and family. But with the time difference, it can be tricky. As a rule of thumb, I like to block out Sunday evenings for phone calls with people back in America. The time difference is manageable for everyone since most don’t work on Sunday, and I’m often preparing for the week ahead and not out with friends on Sunday nights.

My apartment is also sprinkled with evidence of friends and family. I love printing 4×6 photos and decorating my refrigerator and bedroom with fun memories and people I love. You can easily print out your photos and get them the same day at Walgreens and CVS. My mom also made a Shutterfly scrapbook with our favorite family Christmas memories, and I brought this with me to France.

My dad also started writing me weekly letters, and that’s been a special way to keep in contact. I also love mailing out postcards to show my loved ones where I live and to remind them that I’m thinking of them.

Creating a third culture

One of the questions I get the most is what I miss most about the U.S.A. And it’s true: there are quite a few things I miss from food to lifestyle. But there are so many things I love about living in southern France like taking road trips in southern France and going on weekend trips to Bordeaux. If you’re an expat anywhere in the world and want to be a part of a community of people who discuss culture shock and support one another, join my expat Facebook group.

No, I don’t completely fit in while in France and honestly neither in America. But there’s something beautiful about creating your own mix or a third culture. What do you miss most about your home country? Tell me in the comments.

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Where Did Emily in Paris Travel in Season 2?

January 6, 2022

Love it or hate it, people are talking about Emily in Paris and its second season on Netflix. The series follows a young professional who moves from Chicago to Paris to work in marketing and just so happens to find romance and adventure along the way. I watched the first season, and although cliché, the show still tickled my fancy with its lightheartedness, edgy fashion and vibrant soundtrack. When Emily in Paris season 2 came out, I downloaded all the episodes and watched them on my trip back to Marseille. I was disappointed by the flagrant infidelity and rampant raunchiness. But I did enjoy parts of it, especially Emily’s travel throughout France. Whether you loved or hated season 2, you probably watched it because you love travel and/or la France. And if that’s the case, this post is for you because perhaps you wondered, Where did Emily in Paris travel in season 2? In this post, I’m highlighting the several destinations that Emily traveled to in Season 2 and how you can visit the same spots Emily did, too. Here’s where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2:

This article may contain affiliate links. Full disclaimer

Villefranche-sur-Mer

When Emily wakes up in the couchette, or her night train bunk, at the beginning of Episode 2, “Do You Know the Way to Saint Tropez?”, she finds herself in Villefranche-sur-Mer. It sure is a mouthful to say, but this small village of 5,000 is an absolute charmer. In this Emily in Paris episode, she doesn’t spend much time here, but this village is definitely worthy of your time.

I visited Villefranche-sur-Mer last year and fell in love with this village nestled up against the water sprinkled with boats.

We dined at Lou Bantry just two feet from the waterfront. I mean, we threw our leftover baguette to the ducks from our table. You cannot beat this location or views. And it wasn’t too ridiculously priced either. I ordered the Niçoise Burger, which included basil, coppa, mozzarella and tapenade. Good lands! Rich flavor, exquisite taste. My mouth is still watering as I think about this meal.

It’s about a 2-hour drive from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Saint Tropez. Why didn’t Emily take the train directly to Saint Tropez? Great question. Saint Tropez doesn’t have a train station. (The closest train station to Saint Tropez is Saint Raphael, which is about 24 miles away, according to this Saint Tropez tourism site.)

Read my itinerary on Villefranche-sur-Mer and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

Èze

At the beginning of Episode 2, Emily is riding along the coast and snapping photos along the way. And I am almost certain that she passes a small medieval village named Èze while riding in the car to the hotel. This would make sense because Èze is only a 15-minute drive to Villefranche-sur-Mer. The photo I took below matches almost perfectly with the Emily’s car window view.

And Èze is truly one of my favorite places in all of France. This medieval village enchanted me so much so I almost teared up as we left because I just didn’t want to go. If there are castles, sea views and charm, I’m so there. And Èze checks all these boxes. This medieval village is a labyrinth of cobblestone and windy paths, but the steps are worth it. There are shops and restaurants along the way to the top where you get sweeping views of the Mediterranean Sea. Once you make it to the top, you pay to enter the Jardin Exotique d’Èze. The castle ruins and exotic gardens transport you back to an idyllic, ancient France.

Read my itinerary for Èze and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

In Episode 2, Season 2, Emily checks into the Four Seasons Grand Hôtel de Cap Ferrat, which is nearly a two-hour drive from Saint Tropez. Another spot to add to your bucket list, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is another boujee coastal town along the French Rivieria and is home to the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild. Nestled in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild was created in the early 1900s and belonged to Béatrice de Rothschild, a member of the famed banking family. Enjoy a walk through Béa’s many gardens and stop by the salon de thé, or tearoom, for a bite.

Read my itinerary for Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

St. Tropez

But as Episode 2’s title suggests “Do You Know the Way to Saint Tropez?,” Emily spends a large part of this episode in Saint Trop, as the cool kids call it. She stops by the famed Café Sénéquier, a famous red restaurant right on the port where high profiles come to dine. I’ve been there several times, and for its iconic status, it’s worth a visit. I mean, Lily Collins from Emily in Paris went there, right?!

Wondering about where Emily took all her pictures in Saint Tropez and how you can get the same ones? I got you, friend. Here’s are my best educated guesses for where she took her photos. It seems that she snaps selfies at the Port of Saint Tropez: one with the Phare de Saint Tropez lighthouse with red on the top and another on the pier not far from the Tour Portalet.

From the pier, pass the Tour Portalet. And this path will take you to the water’s edge where it seems that she was standing during her call about taking down the Cadault photo.

While calling Luc, Emily also walks through the most darling pathway with peach walls, which was probably filmed near Rue Sous-La-Glaye because a year before the show came out, I spotted this same path and was enamored. Later in the episode, Emily meets Camille in a church, which appears to be La Chapelle Saint-Pierre in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

Read my itinerary for Saint Tropez and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

Grasse

Okay, so what about this Ragazzi party? Where is that house located? According to Netflix, the Ragazzi house is actually Château Diter, which is located in Grasse, France. The property is worth about $66 million, and rooms can be rented out at this château, according to this Netflix article by Ariana Romero.

While in the south of France, Grasse might as well be on your bucket list. The moment my friend Mallory and I stepped out of the car in Grasse a little over a year ago, we smelled it. The sweet aroma of perfume had traveled all the way to even the parking garage! Grasse is known for its perfume houses as well as its museum, Musée International de la Parfumerie. I enjoyed learning about the history of fragrance and strolling through Fragonard.

Read my itinerary for Grasse and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

Champagne

The only one of these locations that I haven’t yet visited is the Champagne region, which Emily visits Camille’s family château in the Champagne region in Episode 8 “Champagne Problems.” It is most definitely on my list because I adore a glass of Taittinger champagne.

Since I haven’t been there yet, I wanted to share Le Long Weekend’s guide to Reims, a town in this region known for its champagne.

But the show was actually filmed at Le Château de Sonnay in Chinon, according to an Apartment Therapy article. However, Chinon is not in the Champagne region; it’s the Loire Valley.

Versailles

And in the season finale, Emily heads to a fashion show in the Hall of Mirrors at the Palace of Versailles. Not only is this room absolutely stunning but it also holds immense historical significance. Long before the Treaty of Versailles was signed in this room in the early 1900s, the Hall of Mirrors welcomed leaders from the Ottoman Empire and Persia in the 1700s.

(And then the cast of Emily in Paris in the 21st century.)

I recently visited the Palace of Versailles for a second time and enjoyed imagining what life was like for the royals. And it’s not even an hour outside of Paris.

Read my itinerary for Versailles and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.

Season 2 wrap-up

Although I have mixed feelings on Season 2 as a whole, I thoroughly enjoyed seeing other parts of France from Saint Tropez to Versailles. I hope this post inspires you to explore more of France beyond Paris. Did I miss any spots? Tell me in the comments.

And need a guide to Paris, too? I got you covered.

Map provided by Wanderlog, for itineraries on iOS and Android

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How to Take a Day Trip to Versailles, France

December 27, 2021

Castles, queens, boujee chandeliers and royal gardens beckon in France. And it’s no secret that out of France’s many castles, the Palace of Versailles ranks as one of the most popular. Being only 13 miles southwest of the City of Lights’ center, Versailles makes a great day trip from Paris. My friend Robin and I spent the weekend exploring Paris and devoted a solid half-day to our Versailles detour. (You most certainly could spend more time here!) From how to get there to how much it costs, here’s your guide on how to take a day trip to Versailles, France, to see the stunning Palace of Versailles.

This post may include affiliate links. Full disclaimer.

How to get to Versailles from Paris

Although you could spend a year in Paris and not see everything, it’s still so worth it to make the journey from Paris to Versailles. No, this smaller town isn’t part of Paris, but it’s extremely simple to get there. Robin and I took the RER C line from downtown Paris directly to Versailles. There are plenty of stops available in the heart of Paris, but if you were to take the RER C line from the Eiffel Tower to Versailles, it takes about 30 minutes. But there are plenty of other stops along the Seine and in the heart of Paris. Honestly, Google Maps does a decent job leading the way, so simply plug in your location and look for the RER C as an option. The RER C isn’t too expensive: the train from Paris to Versailles costs 3.65 euros each way. It drops you off close to the Palace of Versailles. Be sure to hop off at the Gare Versailles Château Rive Gauche. And once there, it’s about a 10 to 15 minute walk to the Palace of Versailles.

How much does it cost to visit the Palace of Versailles?

The short answer is that it depends on how much you want to see. Robin and I chose the Passport tickets, which include palace and estate access, and these passport tickets to Versailles start at 20 euros. If you only want to see the palace, the tickets cost 18 euros. And if you only want to see the Estate of Trianon, it costs 12 euros. Personally, I’d recommend the Passport tickets because it gives you access to the main highlights of the Château de Versailles. Here’s a chart comparing the different tickets.

Don’t want to pay full price? Me neither! The Palace of Versailles offers reduced rates for select groups of people. And they also offer free admission to people under 18 and EU residents under 26. Here’s a full list of people who qualify for free admission.

Still don’t fit into any of those groups? On the first Sunday of the month from November to March, admission is free.

Even if you qualify for a free ticket, definitely book ahead and plan to arrive early. Robin and I booked our Passport tickets and our guided tour several days in advance. But we made the mistake of arriving several minutes before our entry time for our Passport tickets at Versailles. Even for simple Passport ticket access at the Palace of Versailles, dozens of people who had already bought tickets were lined up before the entry time. And this was in November, not the height of tourism season in the summer. So don’t make our mistake: book your tickets in advance and arrive at least 30 minutes before the beginning of your time slot.

How much time do I need?

Versailles is massive, but I think one full day is enough to get the main highlights. Robin and I spent one half-day at Versailles and didn’t get to everything. We skipped out on the gardens since it was freezing, and since it was November, it wasn’t the greenest time for the gardens anyway. We scheduled in a guided tour of the private apartments because both Robin and I had already visited the Château de Versailles and wanted to see another part of the castle.

Guided tour or no guided tour?

You definitely can visit Versailles without a guided tour and learn an incredible amount through the free audio guides or mobile app. But that being said, Versailles is massive and so rich in history that having a guide can make your experience smoother. The first time I visited Versailles, it was on a high school trip at the ripe age of 15. Since I had already taken a day trip to Versailles, I wanted to go deeper this time. For my second day trip to Versailles, I decided to book the guided tour of the King’s Private Appartment. I enjoyed seeing another part of the property and getting more behind-the-scenes information. The Palace of Versailles offers many different types of guided visits in multiple languages, so take a look to see if there are any that tickle your fancy.

Best photo spots at Versailles

Did you even take a day trip to the Palace of Versailles if you don’t put it on the ‘gram? Obviously not. Arguably, every square inch of the Palace of Versailles is photo-worthy, but I’ve rounded up a few of the spots you definitely don’t want to miss. Here are some of the best photo spots at the Palace of Versailles.

Hall of Mirrors

Not only is this room absolutely stunning but it also holds immense historical significance. Long before the Treaty of Versailles was signed in this room in the early 1900s, the Hall of Mirrors welcomed leaders from the Ottoman Empire and Persia in the 1700s. The chandeliers in this room and the regal art will have you drooling and snapping pics left and right.

Black and white checkered floor

Out of all my photos from our day trip to the Palace of Versailles, these photos are my favorite. I absolutely love the contrast between the buildings’ golden details and the checkered ground. You can access this square once you pass the front golden gate. It’s pretty hard to miss!

The golden gate

I’ve seen a handful of castles in my time, but the gold on the Palace of Versailles is striking, that’s for sure. And one great photo spot at the Palace of Versailles is in front of this golden gate at the entrance of the castle.

Gardens

The gardens at the Palace of Versailles are easily one of the most classic spots to take photos. Because we visited in the dead of winter, we didn’t spend much time outside. Exploring the gardens is still on my list, but there are plenty of great photo opportunities in these lavish gardens.

Last tips for your day trip to Versailles

I hope you’re on the edge of your seat just dreaming about your visit to the Palace of Versailles by this point. I love dreaming about what life was like for Louis XIV and Marie Antoinette and imagining life as queen. Yes, Paris has a lot to offer, but it’s so worth it to take a day trip to Versailles, France, to explore the castle and gardens.

You might also enjoy my post on things to do in Paris.

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18 Things to Do in Madrid, Spain

November 21, 2021

I dreamed of a life where I could casually take off to somewhere in Europe for a couple days. After seeing Monte Carlo with Selena Gomez in the 8th grade, I was hooked on traipsing around Europe. And years of watching House Hunters International made me drool over the lives these people were living. And it’s crazy to say that I am living that life in Marseille, France, as an English teaching assistant. Because when my friend Robin who lives in Paris proposed a trip through Spain, I said, “Sure, why not?!” I quickly booked flights, we found an Airbnb et voilà. Robin, her friend and I explored Madrid, Spain, and had a blast rowing boats in Parque el Retiro, eating empanadas at Mercado de San Miguel and analyzing art at the Prado Museum. Here’s 18 things to do in Madrid, Spain.

Puerta del Sol

One of Madrid’s most happening squares offers a smorgasbord of places to shop and eat. This spot used to serve as one of Madrid’s city gates, and Puerta del Sol is also home to Oso y Madroño, or a statue of a cute bear nibbling on a strawberry tree, which serves as the city’s official symbol. I have to be honest: I did not do my research in advance. So when I saw all these people taking pictures by this random bear statue, I was a bit confused but took a picture anyway. I mean, if everyone else is doing it, I guess it must be important? Now I’m all filled in and you can be, too, as you’re compiling things to do in Madrid, Spain.

Plaza de Cibeles

We had been walking through urban Madrid from Puerta del Sol, and construction and scaffolding scattered the sidewalks. And then we came to the intersection where Plaza de Cibeles. And its architecture took my breath away. In 1782, the Cibeles Fountain was designed and served water to Madrid dwellers, but in 1895, the fountain was moved to its current location for decoration, according to Civitatis. The buildings that surround the fountain include headquarters for the Madrid City Council and the army among others. We simply walked by to enjoy the views and take photos, but you can go to Palacio Cibeles for a rooftop meal.

El Retiro Park

A trip to Madrid wouldn’t be complete without a visit to El Retiro Park, which boasts more than 300 acres. And it’s not just trees and benches in the park: there are art exhibits, a small lake, beautiful sculptures and many amazing photo opts. Although this park is massive, I want to highlight three different stops you need to add to your itinerary: Estanque Grande de El Retiro, the Crystal Palace and Palacio de Velázquez.

Estanque Grande de El Retiro

Out of all the things to do in Madrid, renting boats at Estanque Grande de El Retiro is another one near the top of the list. We spent 6 euros total between the three of us for a 45-minute boat rental. I can’t complain! We enjoyed the sweet sunshine as we rowed around this lake in El Retiro Park.

Crystal Palace

Deemed a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Crystal Palace sits in El Retiro Park just a stone’s throw away from a gorgeous pond. Today it rotates through temporary exhibitions, but it was first built as a greenhouse in 1887. Although we weren’t able to go inside on the day we visited, we admired the architecture framed by the tree’s fall colors.

Palacio de Velázquez

A branch of the Reina Sofia Museum, Palacio de Velázquez is a short walk from the Crystal Palace and still in the heart of El Retiro Park. The building is also a UNESCO World Heritage site and houses temporary expositions. We visited Palacio de Velázquez’s Vivian Suter exhibition and enjoyed strolling through all her canvases.

El Perro y La Galleta

If you’re in the market for an Instagrammable restaurant, El Perro y La Galleta is calling your name. We visited their Retiro location, which is logically not too far from El Retiro Park. The upscale, sophisticated dining room is sprinkled with dog portraits and is sure to give you a chuckle. I ordered their burger topped with a fried egg, bacon, cheese and carmelized onions. And it lived up to the hype. El Perro y La Galleta is worth a visit not only for its ambience but also quality menu, and luck for you, there are currently five locations in Madrid.

Sham Pasteleria

We met up with one of Robin and Riana’s college friends who is teaching English in Madrid. And she took us to grab ice cream at Sham Pasteleria, one of her favorite spots next to El Retiro Park. Sham Pasteleria is a Syrian-Lebanese pastry shop but also serves up ice cream. I was unbelievably delighted to be able to eat my ice cream in a gluten-free cone at Sham Pasteleria, and then we walked over to El Retiro Park to enjoy our ice cream.

Reina Sofia Museum

Madrid is home to a bustling art scene, which includes the Reina Sofia Museum. This museum filled with contemporary art opened in 1990 and is home to the likes of Salvador Dalí, Pablo Picasso and Dora Maar. The museum normally costs 10 euros and is closed on Tuesday, but if you can, arrange your trip to take advantage of the free hours. Currently, you can visit the museum for free on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 6 to 8 p.m., but definitely reserve your tickets well in advance. There was a mega long line even with our tickets. You can also visit for free on Sundays between 1:30 and 2:15 p.m.

Prado Museum

For those of you who prefer classical art, then the Prado Museum is something to add to your list of things to do in Madrid. The museum boasts more than 200 years of existence and houses the haunts of Caravaggio, Rembrandt and Rubens among its nearly 9,000 paintings. Out of the Reina Sofia and Prado museums, I preferred the latter, but both have much to offer.

The Prado Museum normally costs 15 euros, but take advantage of their free hours: Monday to Saturday 6 to 8 p.m. and Sunday 5 to 7 p.m. But just like the Reina Sofia Museum, be sure to book your tickets in advance.

Drink tinto de verano

I always thought of sangria when I thought of Spain, but there’s a drink I had yet to discover: tinto de verano, which is basically sangria but bubbly. It’s so light and sweet, and I can’t recommend it enough while dining out in Madrid.

Royal Palace of Madrid

My life goal is pretty much to be a princess, so when there’s a palace, I’m so there. So naturally, the Royal Palace was on my list of things to do in Madrid. There were no more available visits left on the day we visited. Although I would’ve loved to explore inside and take a tour, it was still cool to walk around outside. And just several steps away from the palace is Almudena Cathedral. And sandwiched in between the palace and cathedral is an amazing view of Madrid.

Mercado de San Miguel

When I returned to Marseille, my friends asked me how my trip to Madrid was, and on different occasions, people added, “It looked like you ate well!” And boy, did I! Mercado de San Miguel was truly one of my favorite memories from this trip. When friends had recommended we go to this food hall while in Madrid, I shrugged. Because I’ve been to so many food halls in Europe, and they’re all pretty much the same.

But Mercado de San Miguel truly wowed me. The food hall was tapas style, meaning the goal was to have small bites from stands — instead of grabbing a full meal or buying fresh-market produce, cheese, deli meat, etc. From spicy chorizo to sangria, Mercado de San Miguel had a wide range of boujee bites. And there were good gluten-free options, too, because they often use corn as a base.

I am still thinking about and drooling over my barbecue ribs empanada. My cheese sticks with a corn flour base from P.A.N. were also rich with flavor. I also made a stop at Mas Gourmets/Carrasco Ibéricos for some chorizo. All that to say, you must stop by Mercado de San Miguel, and come hungry.

Plaza Mayor

Another classic spot in Madrid, Plaza Mayor is a beautiful square filled with restaurants and shops. This square’s history dates back to the 1400s, and the three of us enjoyed sitting on a bench and people watching to rest our weary legs.

Chocolateria San Ginés

Another classic Madrid activity is grabbing churros at Chocolateria San Ginés, which opened in 1894. But not just any churros but churros dipped in a thick chocolate sauce. Swoon. When I read about this spot before coming to Spain, I expected a super fancy dining experience, but it was very casual. Definitely a great spot to get a sweet snack.

Temple of Debod

What is an Egyptian temple doing in the middle of Spain? Glad you asked because I had the same question. The Temple of Debod is an Egyptian temple dating back to the 2nd century, and it was gifted to Madrid to save it from flooding in the 1900s. All the parts were shipped from Egypt to Madrid, and its opening was in 1972.

Before our trip, we asked several friends their recommendations on the best things to do in Madrid, and multiple said watching the sunset at the Temple of Debod. Many others had the same idea that night, and it was so pleasant listening to live music and watching Madrid’s beautiful skyline.

Our two or so days in Madrid were jam-packed, but we have a lot to show for our time in Spain. From truly the best food market I’ve visited to its expansive art scene, there’s plenty to add to your list of things to do in Madrid.

You might also like: Barcelona City Guide

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2021 Gift Ideas for Wanderlust Lovers

November 4, 2021

I feel like a child. I truly get so giddy when the holiday season rolls around and I get to make my list. No, it’s no longer Barbies and dress up that I’m looking forward to finding under the tree. Instead, it’s a picnic backpack for charcuterie nights at the park and travel-themed art prints. The holiday season is the perfect time to not only treat yo’ loved ones (and yourself) but also to stock up on practical purchases, too. I’ve rounded up some of my favorite buys, wish list items and gift ideas for wanderlust lovers.

This post may include affiliate links. Disclaimer.

Best shopping tools

Before we dive into all the amazing gift ideas for wanderlust lovers, I wanted to share some of my favorite shopping tools, which can save you hundreds of dollars this holiday season. First and foremost, you aboslutely must download Rakuten. It’s a free plugin that gives you a percentage cash back at thousands of stores including Disney, Adidas, Ulta, Shutterfly, Nike, Anthropologie. Sign up this month and get $30 in cash back.

Another great way you can earn as you spend is through Acorns, an app that rounds up your purchases and puts it into a mutual fund. If I buy a coffee for $3.65, it puts the 35 cents into my investment account. But even more, they offer bonus investments with certain business partners. For example, 4% of my Macy’s order invested in my account or a direct $36 after signing up with GreenChef. So easy!

And for you expat folk, you cannot do life without TransferWise. This third-party service helps you transfer in between foreign bank accounts at mega low rates. I haven’t found any lower transfer rates than through TransferWise. Truly a game changer. Get your first transfer free of fees.

Okay, now to the good stuff with my best gift ideas for wanderlust lovers.

Gift ideas for the home

Anthropologie Bonjour Sign ($48): This “bonjour” sign is so delicate and the perfect accent for the France lover in your life.

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Where we stayed

Rent a car

Downtown Paia

Maui Sunriders

Better Things

Ululani’s Hawaiian Shaved Ice

Lima Cocina and Cantina

The Shoppe by Hale Zen

Downtown Lahaina

Cool Cat Cafe

Eat a Dole Whip

Shop at the Maui Pineapple Store

Walk along Kapalua Coastal Trail

Brunch at Waicoco

Ka’anapali Surf Club

Black Rock Beach

Castaway Cafe

Wailele Luau

Pizza Paradiso

More helpful tips for Maui

What is TAPIF?

TAPIF recap: first year vs. second year

My schedule

My first year in TAPIF

My second year in TAPIF

Sign up to get your free 101 Classroom Ideas for TAPIF and TEFL

Commuting

My first year in TAPIF

My second year in TAPIF

Lunch

Environment

My first year in TAPIF

My second year in TAPIF

The salary

TAPIF recap: Is this program for me?

TAPIF recap overview

About Nîmes, France

Things to Do in Nîmes

L’Impérial Café

La Dolcezza

Jardins de la Fontaine

Temple de Diane

Tour Magne

Les Arènes de Nîmes

Maison Carrée

Things to do in Aigues-Mortes

How to get to Aigues-Mortes from Nîmes

Castle ramparts and Tower of Constance

Enjoy the pink salt marshes

Église Notre Dame des Sablons d’Aigues-Mortes

Take a boat tour

Place Saint Louis

But first things first

Is it hard to get a job in France?

My job search wishes

My job offer

Best tips for finding jobs for English speakers in France

Translate your CV into French

Scour online job listings and create alerts

Teach abroad

Get a master’s

Network, network, network

Convert your diploma

Add personal touches

Don’t be shy

Take a French language test

Looking for easy ways to improve your French level? Here are some of my free resources.

What’s next in the process

Food

How I bring America to France with food

TV series

How I bring America to France with TV

Convenience

How I bring America to France with convenience

Friends and family

How I bring America to France with loved ones

Creating a third culture

Villefranche-sur-Mer

Read my itinerary on Villefranche-sur-Mer and learn how you can travel where Emily in Paris traveled in Season 2.