How to Spend a Week in Banff, Canada
Lush evergreen forests and crystal glacier lakes. I’d already visited Vancouver years ago, but our week in Banff made me fall in love with Canada all over again. After flying into Calgary, we rented a car and made the hour-and-a-half drive to Banff. From lake strolls to ice cream stops, quaint mountain towns to stunning views, our week in Banff was a breath of fresh air. Even more, it’s a great mix of my American roots and my adopted French culture. I’d heard lots of Banff hype over the years, and honestly, the views are truly out of this world. From lodging to logistics, best activities to restaurants, here’s how to spend a week in Banff, Canada.
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Where we stayed
Okay, perhaps the title of this blog post is slightly misleading… I’d certainly heard of Banff but not of Canmore. We rented an Airbnb for the whole crew in Canmore, and I arguably enjoyed this small mountain town more than downtown Banff. It was calmer and less crowded but still had plenty of choices for restaurants, shopping and excellent views. And still only a 20-minute drive from Banff. My European expat self loved that the town was pedestrian-friendly. From our Airbnb, we could walk to restaurants and shops easily. Canmore served as our home base for the trip, but we ventured out just about every day to explore destinations around us.
I’ve broken down this post into Banff National Park must-sees as well as best things to do in Canmore and Banff.
Best day trips from Banff
Yes, downtown Banff is cute, but the real draw? Banff National Park and its lakes. We went to Lake Louise not once but twice during our trip. Its crystal blue waters and postcard backdrop honestly don’t feel real. No one pinch me! Our crew took a leisurely stroll around the lake and soaked up the views. With a toddler in tow, we didn’t want to do any big hikes, but for those looking for a quality hike, you have your fair share.
After our walk on the path around the lake, we headed to lunch at Louiza, the Fairmont Hotel’s restaurant open to the public. Both times we got in without reservations. Just a fair warning: there are not a lot of restaurants at Lake Louise. It’s the Fairmont’s sit-down restaurant or its grab-and-go shop. Plan your day and meals accordingly.
We reserved a shuttle through Via Via tours that picked us up in Canmore and dropped us off at Lake Louise. We had several hours to admire the views, take a stroll and eat lunch. Our guide was fantastic, and it was wonderful to not worry about parking. In retrospect, we wish we would’ve done their combined tour of Lake Louise and Lake Moraine on the same day.
And if Lake Louise wasn’t already a treasure… Our trip to Moraine Lake started out misty and overcast, but the day ended with sunshine and views that were almost too good to be true. Our guide from Via Via Tours explained that this site isn’t open year-round because of ample snowfall in the winter.
That means that this lake is only accessible by car between June and October, per Banff & Lake Louise. Even more, you have to book a shuttle because personal vehicles aren’t allowed.
Like at Lake Louise, we took a stroll around the lake and even hiked up the Rockpile Trail for probably my favorite view of the entire week. I’m still convinced that the lake water was actually Cool Blue Gatorade. Do not skip the few extra steps for these views that are sure to take your breath away. If there wasn’t much around Lake Louise, it’s even more sparse at Moraine Lake. Definitely pack a picnic or think to eat before; aside from a giftshop, it’s you and nature. Because we weren’t doing any big hikes, we didn’t feel the need to spend 3+ hours at either lake — beautiful as they might be. And the tour company offered that very tour of the lake combo in the same day. In hindsight, we wish that we had combined both lakes on the same day. But all things considered, we’re not complaining about more time at these extraordinary spots.
What to do in downtown Canmore
Canmore promises a quaint yet lively downtown. From our Airbnb, we had a pleasant, 15- or 20-minute walk to reach its shops and restaurants. I’ve been living in France for nearly 6 years, and as much as I love coming back home to a car, a walkable city is a treat. Here are some of our favorites in downtown Canmore:
Beamers Coffee Bar – Local, casual coffee joint. Try the Canadian Mocha (hint: includes maple syrup!).
Eclipse Coffee Roasters – This boujee coffee shop downtown serves up specialty coffee and goodies.
Stonewaters – This decor and gift store in downtown Canmore gave off Anthropologie vibes, but with a Canadian flare.
Blake Brewhouse and Distillery – When your name is on something, you go. It’s really not that difficult! We dined at this restaurant with sports bar vibes, spacious patio and mountain views. Two thumbs up — one for the food, another for the name.
Rocky Mountain Bagel – When there’s a line out the door, you know it’s real. And when they also serve gluten-free bagels, it’s a no brainer. We waited a hot minute for our bagel sandwiches at this visibly beloved joint. It was worth the wait!
Rocky Mountain Flatbread – Most of the crew was tempted by this restaurant’s pizza. Totally fair. But when I saw maple bacon mac n’ cheese on the menu, my curiosity got the best of me. And no complaints!
Lovely Ice Cream & Treats – If you’re new here, I have a rule that says it’s not vacation if there’s no ice cream. And luckily, Canmore didn’t let us down. Our favorite ice cream shop, hands down, was Lovely. We stumbled into it because it wasn’t far from our Airbnb and it said “ice cream” on the door. So once again, a no brainer. But what we didn’t even plan was that the establishment was gluten-free. Yes, even the baked goods! That meant gluten-free ice cream cookie sandwiches. Along with the lake views, this was probably my highlight of the trip.
Old School Bus Ice Cream – This spot was a favorite for my nephew who is going through his school bus era. He was arguably more interested in the school bus that had been converted into an ice cream joint than the sweet treat itself!
What to do in downtown Banff
Roots – It’s not a trip to Canada without a visit to Roots, a Canadian clothing store. I picked up a heather grey tee that reminds me of our great trip. Located on Banff Avenue, the location is great not just for this Canadian favorite but also a host of other gift shops.
The Eddie Burger + Bar – Excellent burger spot with ample gluten-free options. Man, it felt good to have a burger back on my continent.
Good Earth Coffeehouse – Shopping and strolling mountain villages is certainly better with iced coffee in hand. We made a stop at Good Earth, which made the day more caffeinated and therefore better.
Bow Falls Trail – After lunch, we enjoyed a nice walk on the Bow Falls Trail. This pleasant stroll is suitable for beginners and promises views of pine forests and the Bow River.
Our week in Banff (and its surroundings) was just as beautiful as the postcards make it out to be. We ate copiously, and as someone who isn’t naturally a mountain person, I truly enjoyed our alpine escape. One last thing: be sure to hydrate! I had forgotten what altitude sickness is like, and it is not a fun way to spend your trip. From Canmore to Banff and its surroundings, you’re sure to enjoy your vacation, no matter your speed.
