I have spent the majority of my years in France in the south, under the sun, by the sea. And when I’d venture up north, it was oftentimes to Paris for a weekend or work trip. Outside of Paris, I have yet to explore much of the northern half of France. But recently, I was invited to wedding in Alsace, a famed French region nestled next to Germany and an area known for its wine, beautiful villages and Christmas markets. Not only was I excited to celebrate my friend getting married, but I was also delighted to have an excuse to explore a new corner of France. From Kaysersberg to Colmar, here are some of the best places to visit in Alsace.
Kaysersberg
One of the things I love most about life abroad is just that: living, not simply traveling. As a traveler, you research your itinerary, make reservations and explore around those areas. When you live abroad, you make friends, grow roots and see the country through the lens of a local. I didn’t know much about Kaysersberg until I was invited to my French friend’s wedding here. I knew very little about it until I arrived, and y’all, it was a dream. It felt like walking through a storybook. As much as I love my adopted home of Provence, it doesn’t have the fairytale charm that Alsace boasts.
La Table du Pâtissier
After spending six hours in a train, my friends and I were tired and hungry. We’d unloaded our belongings at the house and set out to downtown Kaysersberg to find a bite to eat. We were distracted by the many photo opts and started looking at various menus. Too expensive, no gluten-free options, so-and-so doesn’t like this dish much. For some reason, friendship is easy until you have to decide on a place to eat.
The farther we wandered, the hungrier we became. We finally settled for one of the last places we stumbled upon: la Table du Pâtissier. And it ended up being the highlight of the day. This restaurant offers regional dishes and classics with an Alsacian twist. I ordered the rösti burger, which included raclette cheese, Black Forest ham, rösti (potato) and smoked onions. The others opted for sauerkraut and chicken in a Riesling sauce. We all left just oohing and ahhing about the meal we thoroughly enjoyed.
Château de Kayserberg
With all our wedding festivities and bridesmaid duties, we didn’t have time to fully explore the village, namely the Château de Kaysersberg. Next time, I’ll be sure to stop by this castle, which dates back to the 1200s and boasts views of the village and vineyards.
Treat yourself to a bretzel, crêpe or ice cream
When in Alsace, do as the Alsaciens. There are bretzels all over; you genuinely can’t miss them. After our most wonderful dinner at la Table du Pâtissier, we sauntered around the village and walked off our big meal. But no meal is complete without dessert (according to me, Kristin of Round Trip). So we stopped by Sur un Nuage Le Bonheur, a small, unassuming shop in downtown Kaysersberg. The employees were so friendly and even offered us another scoop of ice cream on the house. They know the way to my heart! They also sold hot pretzels and fresh crêpes. Bon appétit !
Flâner in the old town
One of the things that attracts me most to France is its ambience, its je ne sais quoi. This country is filled with highly rated restaurants and world-class attractions. But for me, simply walking its ancient streets and relishing in the fairytale architecture and slower pace is bliss. When looking for the best places to visit in Alsace, I encourage you to just wander or “flâner” downtown in old Kaysersberg and marvel at the traditional homes.
Colmar
When visiting Alsace, you must add Colmar to your list. This village is small yet very accessible thanks to its TGV, or high-speed train station. I took a direct train from Marseille to Colmar with no connections. Victory! After the wedding weekend in Kaysersberg and Sainte-Marie-les-Mines, I had booked a mid-afternoon train to return to Marseille. That meant I had a full morning and some afternoon to do some solo exploring in this gorgeous village.
L’Entre-Pot
Several people had recommended l’Artémise, a salon de thé in Colmar. However, they were all booked. Next time! So I wandered and found l’Entre-Pot, a cafe-meets-flower shop. I enjoyed an iced coffee, read and journaled. It felt so magical being surrounded by a labyrinth of flowers. On this solo leg of my trip, it was the perfect place to sit and reflect on the past couple months.
Le Marché Couvert de Colmar
Sundays in France are typically calm, closed and empty. But thankfully, the covered market was open for my solo journey. I wandered around the markets and decided on a stand called Légumez-moi ! I ordered one of their gratins gourmands with potatoes, reblochon cheese, raclette cheese and ham. I was amazed by the savory, quality ingredients and loved that it was gluten-free!
Bartholdi Museum
You may have never heard of Bartholdi, but I promise you know him. He’s the brains behind the Statue of Liberty, which you’d probably heard of 😉 Colmar is a small village, so having a day or two here is sufficient to see the big highlights. I had some time before my train and thought I’d take a stroll through the Bartholdi Museum, which is the home where he was born. The museum recounts and showcases some of his works and biography. I did enjoy seeing old photos, including of my hometown of St. Louis, as Bartholdi traveled to the U.S.A. multiple times. In retrospect, it was interesting enough, but I wouldn’t designate it as as must-see.
Enjoy ice cream from La Sorbetière d’Isabelle
But did you expect anything less from me? An ice cream connoisseur, it was my duty to find a good ice cream spot in Colmar. I ordered two scoops from La Sorbetière d’Isabelle and was delighted with its rich flavor. It was the perfect treat for a summer’s day in Alsace.
Cathédrale Saint Martin
France is filled to the brim with churches to visit, and Colmar is no different. Wander past the Cathédrale Saint Martin and admire its gothic architecture dating back to the 1200s.
Architecture throughout the village
The buildings and architecture in Alsace are markedly different from other regions of France. Be sure to pass by the Pfister House in downtown Colmar. This building was built in 1537 and looks like it jumped out of a Disney film. Not far away, the Koifhus used to be the town’s customs building built in the 1400s.
My long weekend in Alsace was a success and is only the beginning of my discovery. Next time I’m in the area, I’ll be sure to visit Strasbourg as that’s also one of the best places to visit in Alsace. Along with its fairytale architecture and hearty meals, this region is also known for its Christmas markets, which means I’ll just have to go back in a few months. Drats! I’ll long cherish this long weekend, thanks to Kaysersberg’s downtown and Colmar’s charm.
