With more than five years of expat life in France under my belt, I’ve made my way around the continent of Europe. But I had never step foot in South America before this year. All thanks to a work trip that brought me to Argentina. And it didn’t take long to fall in love with this country with exceptional food and a wide variety of activities for every kind of traveler. From steak to empanadas, I genuinely didn’t have a bad meal. I ran into famed soccer player Lionel Messi at virtually every corner, whether it was a mural, keychain or framed photo. (Unfortunately not the real one!) I quickly discovered the Argentinians’ caffeinated drink of choice. No, not coffee, not tea, but mate. Not only did I have a ball discovering Argentina’s capital, but we also ventured to the countryside in San Antonio del Areco and into Uruguay. Here’s my guide to Buenos Aires, Argentina, plus our day trips to San Antonio del Areco and Colonia del Sacramento.
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Things to Do in Buenos Aires
Jardín Botánico Carlos Thays
My overnight flight landed in Buenos Aires at 5 a.m. Also known as the worst time possible when you’re trying to beat jet leg. But I didn’t want to waste one of my precious days in BA. One of my first stops was the botanical gardens, which were in full bloom in October. These free gardens are expansive and even hosted an outdoor market the day I visited. Very quickly, I noticed the cups that nearly every Argentinian was nursing as they strolled the park: a cup with a metal straw with a liquid topped with loose herbs. This is the national caffeinated drink of choice, made from yerba mate leaves.
Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires
Or Malba for short. I strolled through this art museum with modern art exhibits. I made my way through the museum in about an hour. It was a tad modern for my tastes but still glad I took a stroll.
Tango show
I combed through dozens of blog articles on Buenos Aires, and many recommended seeing a tango show. I shrugged it off, thinking it might be kitschy and touristy. However, during my conference, a tango show was already included in the program. We enjoyed a dinner and show at Cafe de los Angelitos. And holy cow, I ate my words along with my steak! The dancing and live music was incredible. I have never seen people bend like that!
Obelisco
One of the main sites to see in Buenos Aires is the famed Obelisco. (No, it’s not the Lincoln Memorial, Mom!) This obelisk straddles one of the largest streets in the world with a whooping 16 lanes, per Buenos Aires Cuidad. The monument commemorates the founding of the city in 1536 and is where the national flag was first raised. If you’re looking for a great photo spot (where I took the one below), head over to Escalera Panorámica. Climb up these stairs and snap a picture with this iconic landmark.
Plaza de Mayo
Another one of of the main sites to see in Buenos Aires is Plaza de Mayo, the city’s oldest public square. On one end of the square, you’ll find la Casa Rosada, or the pink house. This building houses the president’s office. Honestly, I think I prefer the Pink House to the White House 🙂
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
If you’re into bookshops, be sure to stop at El Ateneo Grand Splendid. You could spend hours in this massive theater-turned-bookstore dating back to the early 1900s.
Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo
A short walk from the Malba, this free decorative arts museum once served as a private residence. Today visitors can admire its 6000+ pieces from paintings to tapestries. I felt like I was in Europe as I strolled this mansion.
La Boca
This artsy neighborhood outside of the city center is filled with colored buildings, shops and art. It felt like the Montmartre of Buenos Aires. Note: our guide said it’s a great place to visit during the day but should be avoided at night.
Markets in Palermo and Recoleta
I think one of my favorite things I did in Buenos Aires was visiting its street markets. I spent hours wandering the hundreds of tents selling jewelry, artwork, candles, mate cups and leather goods. I spent hours wandering the different stands. I walked up and down the markets near the Recoleta Cemetery several times, and later, I visited the markets in the Palermo neighborhood. I unfortunately didn’t have time to visit the San Telmo markets but have heard raving reviews. Erin from Sol Salute wrote a blog post about the best markets to see in Buenos Aires. (I spent hours reading her blog as I prepared for my trip!)
La Recoleta Cemetery
On my long flight to Buenos Aires, I watched Evita on the plane. This 1996 musical starring Antonio Banderas and Madonna recalls the life and legacy of former first lady of Argentina Eva Perón. Watch it once, and you’ll have “Don’t cry for me, Argentina!” stuck in your head. One of the major things to see in Buenos Aires is La Recoleta Cemetery, where Evita herself lies. This cemetery is filled with ornate tombs of important figures in Argentinian history.
Where to Eat in Buenos Aires
Sintaxis
I came here on three different occasions during my trip to Buenos Aires. Sintaxis is a fully gluten-free restaurant with a wide variety of breads, pastries, empanadas and more. Aka my dream come true! Even more, they have a location in the trendy Palermo neighborhood. I ordered the empanadas two different times and ate up every last crumb. I also ordered one of their alfajors (see photo below), which is kind of like a huge macaron but typically filled with dulce de leche.
Alma
Another highlight from our meals in Buenos Aires was Alma. This swanky restaurant is tucked in the Sofitel. My ribs were savory, and the service was top-notch.
Walking Food Tour
One of the highlights of my time in Buenos Aires was hands-down our walking food tour in the Palermo neighborhood. On this small group tour, we strolled Palermo and visited different restaurants. Our guide was exceptional and explained not only the culinary traditions but also about the city and Argentinian history. And, best of all, they were able to accommodate my gluten-free diet. The tour included choripàn, pizza, empanadas, dulce de leche, and gelato. Our tour also included a stop at Parrilla Dona Tota Argentina, a local joint where we gobbled up steak, grilled provoleta cheese and Malbec wine. I cannot recommend this food tour enough!
Revire Brasas Bravas
On our first night, my co-worker and I wanted an authentic Argentinian dinner. So steak! We found this restaurant between our two hotels and went all out. I ordered the filet mignon and Léa ordered the ribs; we split our dishes and ate to our hearts’ content. I’ve said it once and I’ll say it again: I didn’t have a bad meal in Argentina.
Fervor
This restaurant was a short walk from our hotel and will not disappoint those looking for the best of Argentina’s meat.
Piegari
This Italian restaurant was a short walk from our hotel, and I’m sad to have discovered it near the end of our trip. I rarely go for gnocchi at restaurants or even at home, but I ordered Piegari’s gluten-free gnocchi. And my mouth is still watering to this day!
San Telmo food market
There’s nothing I love more than having a variety of choices to suit the needs of the entire group. Enter indoor food market. Dating back to more than a century, the Mercado de San Telmo offers a variety of different food stalls. I ordered a chorípan, one of my favorite dishes that I discovered during my time in Argentina.
Café Tortoni
Looking for a restaurant/cafe with character and charm? Open since 1858, Café Tortoni is the oldest cafe in Buenos Aires.
Where I Stayed in Buenos Aires
For part of my trip, I stayed in the ibis Congreso hotel. For another part, I stayed in the Palacio Duhau, an exquisite Hyatt property in the Recoleta neighborhood. I felt plenty safe in both neighborhoods. I underestimated the size of BA, which was much larger than I had anticipated. The bus and metro systems, which are extremely cheap, were a big help. If you’re not comfortable navigating public transportation, Ubers are also very affordable.
Day Trips from Buenos Aires
The capital of Argentina is rich with culture, cuisine and sights to see. I’m so glad that I took the time to explore this gem, a city that feels like a crossover between New York and Paris. Take your time to enjoy Buenos Aires! However, there are several excellent day trips to discover if time permits.
San Antonio del Areco
As much as I loved Buenos Aires, it’s a big city that felt quite European. But our day trip to San Antonio del Areco allowed me to discover traditional Argentina. Our driver picked us up at our hotel in Buenos Aires, and we headed out with a small tour group to discover the countryside. After a quick stop in the traditional town of San Antonio del Areco, we went to an estancia, or ranch. The property owners welcomed us in for an asado, or barbecue. We ate a variety of meats and other local specialities and even had our own folkloric dance show. They were very accommodating for my gluten-free needs as well. Our small group also had the chance to ride horses among the sheep pasture and to feed the goats on the estancia.
Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay
If you’re new here, I made a goal for myself to hit 30 countries before turning 30. So when I heard that Uruguay was a short boat ride from Buenos Aires, it was a no brainer! Our group took the ferry and crossed the Rio de la Plata to the cute little town of Colonia del Sacramento. This traditional town is a great place to take a stroll, grab lunch and admire the unique Spanish-meets-Portuguese architecture. We dined at the schnazzy Charco Bistro with water views. I enjoyed popping in and out of local shops filled with dulce de leche and artisanal goods. I enjoyed our day trip to Colonia and its UNESCO World Heritage historic quarter, and a day was plenty of time!
Buenos Aires, you weren’t particularly high on my bucket list, but thanks to a work trip, I discovered the excellent cuisine, rich history and colorful culture of Argentina. My trip was nearly two weeks long, and I only scraped the surface of this beautiful country.