On my bus ride home from work one day, I was scrolling through my emails. And then I saw it: a flight deal for $500 between St. Louis and Helsinki. I have an account on Going, formerly Scott’s Cheap Flights, which tracks cheap flights from your home airport and sends you alerts. I took a screenshot of the deal, sent it to my older sister and half-jokingly said, “Wanna meet up in Finland?” Being an expat in France, I don’t have the easiest setup to get back home to Missouri from Provence. But meeting somewhere “in between” makes for quite the adventure. After organizing PTO and booking our flights, we met up Helsinki several months later. From Helsinki to Lapland, here’s how to spend a week in Finland, plus some budgeting tips for your trip to Finland.
- Our Finland itinerary route
- Helsinki
- Rovaniemi
- Porvoo
- Budgeting tips
- What surprised me about Finland
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Our Finland itinerary route
So, we found the good flight deals and picked our dates. Next up: figuring out what we actually wanted to do. Neither of us knew much about Finland before our trip, but we both were excited to discover a new country. And then I looked at a map… Finland was way larger than I realized. Helsinki is in the south, but the Arctic Circle is way up north. We only had six days and wanted to make the most of our trip. Here’s the trajectory we took:
Helsinki > Rovaniemi > Helsinki > Porvoo
We arrived in Helsinki on Saturday afternoon and took the night train on Sunday night to Rovaniemi. We then arrived in Rovaniemi on Monday morning and flew back to Helsinki on Wednesday morning. After we continued exploring Helsinki and took a day trip to Porvoo. I flew back to France on Thursday and Taylor back to America on Friday. It was quick, but we squeezed so much in!
Helsinki
Sure, Finland is known for its untouched nature and animal life, but don’t overlook the capital. Helsinki is teeming with museums, restaurants and shops. I certainly enjoyed my time in the more remote parts of the country, but I also adored our time in Helsinki on our Finland itinerary.
Ateneum Art Museum
Located in downtown Helsinki, the Ateneum Art Museum offers a wide variety of Finnish art to enjoy. We just so happened to walk in right as the next free English-language tour was beginning. And we said, why not? It was great to have a guide explain the important pieces of Finnish art history. They offer these free guided tours on the first Sunday of every month. You can expect to spend between one to two hours in this Finnish art gallery.
Kauppatori (Market Square)
Head downtown by the port and explore the different food stalls and local vendors selling produce at Kauppatori. I enjoyed a meal of reindeer sausage, seasoned potatoes and vegetables at one of the Market Square stalls.
Grill a sausage at Café Regatta
This red cottage sits along the sea and is the cutest place to enjoy Finnish food and culture in Helsinki. Café Regatta’s interior is small but eclectic with various wall hangings. You can order Finnish pastries, sausages, cinnamon rolls and other goodies. They also have gluten-free and vegan options. They have a campfire outside where you can grill the sausages you order. I was tempted by the experience and had fun roasting my sausage over the fire. It’s certainly a change of pace from Helsinki city life, and it’s worth the trip a little farther away from the city center.
Get a korvapuusti and Karelian pastries with egg butter
There’s a chance that you don’t know a lick of Finnish. But one word you’ll learn quickly is korvapuusti, or cinnamon roll. You’ll see them everywhere, and I was delighted to have even found gluten-free korvapuusti at Keliapuot. They also had vegan options, too. Another classic Finnish food you’ll see is the Karelian pastries paired with egg butter. Taylor and I enjoyed our Karelian pastries topped with egg butter at Cafe Regatta, hers with gluten and mine gluten-free.
Temppeliaukion Church (Church of the Rock)
If the Lonely Planet book says so, you gotta do it. My sister received a book about Lonely Planet’s 500 best places to see in the world, and this Lutheran church built into a rock was on this list. The acoustics of Temppeliaukion Church are fantastic, and it is an architectural marvel. I was a bit disappointed by the price tag in regards to the experience. You pay to walk in, and there’s very little information about the architecture. But it’s certainly a classic in Helsinki.
Eat some reindeer
I’m not always chatty on planes. It really depends on my mood. But on my flight from Paris to Helsinki, I struck up a conversation with the man next to me. He was a French expat living in Helsinki, and I picked his brain for best things to do in Helsinki. He recommended Kolme Kruunua, a local-yokel restaurant serving up Finnish classics. Taylor and I enjoyed plates of reindeer, mashed potatoes and lingon berries. We had great service and enjoyed that it wasn’t overly touristy. As you’ll see during your trip to Finland, reindeer is served everywhere! Personally, I thought it tasted like pot roast and certainly had a game-y taste.
Go to the movie theater!
When your sister writes film reviews and has her own film blog, it’s not surprising that we found ourselves at a Finnish movie theater during our trip. We had our night train that left a little before midnight, but we were worn out from walking around the whole day. With a few hours to spare, we took a peek at the showings at local movie theaters and scarfed down our reindeer in order to make the next Indiana Jones showing.
It was originally just to fill the time we had before our train, but it ended up being a highlight. Of course, we saw lots of tourist spots during our trip, but going to the movie theater showed us another side of Finnish culture. (And no, I’m not talking about the movie!) Americans need to take notes because Finnish movie theaters have it figured it out. The concession stand was filled with hundreds of types of candies that you scooped into a small bag, weighed and then paid for at the register. It was honestly a bit overwhelming! They had cases full of buttered popcorn (which isn’t a thing in France), nachos and other movie snacks.
Shop at Marimekko
My sister and I kept noticing that the Finnish women often wore clothes or bags with a logo we didn’t recognize. We kept seeing this poppy print in stores, on scarves, shirts, dresses, bags. Lo and behold, with our own eyes, we discovered Marimekko and our interest was piqued. This Finnish brand is notably present, and we decided to go to the outlet to check it out for ourselves. Several hundreds of euros later and a store membership later, my sister and I could pass as Finnish with our wardrobes now.
Explore Suomenlinna
On our way back to Helsinki from Rovaniemi, we took a regional flight, instead of the overnight train. Our red-eye flight was delayed five hours… It wasn’t pleasant in the moment, but the excessive delay entitled us to 250 euros each. So it funded our shopping spree at Marimekko, so no need to feel too bad for us. But that long delay did eat into our remaining time. I had wanted to explore Suomenlinna, a sea fortress off the coast of Helsinki. You can reach it by ferry departing from Market Square.
Unfortunately, we didn’t time it right. With our flight delay and other sightseeing for the day, we boarded the ferry and arrived shortly before dusk fell. I didn’t realize how big the islands were, how much there was to do and how much would be closed that late. The islands have six museums to explore. You can also enjoy a meal or something to drink at one of its restaurants or cafés. I don’t have much to write home about regarding our visit to Suomenlinna, except that you should go earlier in the day. (Here are some of the highlights to hit.) We did enjoy a drink at one of its bars before taking the ferry back.
Drink some glögi
Be sure to try some of Finland’s glögi, or mulled wine. This hot wine or juice will make you feel all cozy and is the perfect beverage for a cold country.
Take the VR train to Lapland
What I didn’t realize about Finland was how huge it is. In terms of area, Finland is comparable to the state of Montana or New Mexico. So there’s quite a lot of exploring to do, and Helsinki is far south. Nearly a decade ago, I had an unpleasant night train experience between France and Italy. It was raging hot, bed bugs were involved, very little sleep. I was hesitant to jump back on the night train horse, but my sister really wanted to try the overnight train from Helsinki to Lapland. Given the high prices of lodging and the very attractive price of the night train, I accepted.
We paid 157 euros to share a private bunk room. We boarded around 11:30 p.m. and arrived the following day around 11 a.m. And it was wonderful! The room was small but well thought-out. There was even a hidden shower in our small bathroom. Because the train left so late and we had explored so much, I slept like a rock. The VR train was very clean, and the beds were comfy enough. They even had a restaurant car, so we could enjoy our morning coffee as Lapland scenery rolled by. There weren’t enough tables, so we shared one with a delightful Finnish woman, who was happy to answer our questions about Finland travel and culture. I am so glad I gave the night train experience another go because it was delightful. On our way back to Helsinki, we took a regional flight with Finnair.
Rovaniemi
Head up north to Lapland to explore the Arctic Circle and, more importantly, meet Santa Clause! And be sure to pack a hat and gloves.
Go to Santa Claus Village
Confession: we were that grinch family who never believed in Santa Claus growing up. Rovaniemi just so happens to be Santa Claus’ official hometown, so when in Lapland, you gotta go meet him. My sister and I don’t have kids, but we still wanted to go visit the old man while up north. No need to come at Christmastime; you can meet Santa any day of the year at Santa Claus Village. (But you have to pay for a picture with him…)
His village also is where you can cross into the Arctic Circle. My sister and I got wooden ornaments to commemorate our crossing of the Arctic Circle. I sent postcards to family and friends from the Arctic Circle and loved hearing when it arrived thousands of miles away. Santa Claus Village isn’t in downtown Rovaniemi, so we took a taxi there. Whether you have kids or not, it’s worth the trip. I think it would’ve been much more magical to have gone around Christmastime. Not everything was open at Santa Clause Village since it was off season, but I’m still glad we went.
Feed the reindeer
All in all, Santa Clause Village was a bit of a ghost town on a weekday in October. Not all of the activities were open. But we were there to make the most of it. We stumbled upon the Elf’s Farmyard, which ended up being a highlight on our Finland itinerary. This mini “zoo” is open every day of the year in Santa Clause Village. You can see reindeer, goats, alpaca, turkeys, bunnies, donkeys, chickens and more. We paid for a bag of moss to feed to the reindeer, and we had a ball. I had never met a reindeer before, but it was so cool to see them up close and personal. They are very silly, greedy eaters! And we learned the hard way that their burps stink.
Roka Street Bistro
My sister and I enjoyed a tasty meal at Roka, which serves up bistro and street food. It was well-rated on TripAdvisor, so we gave it a go. I opted for the pork & chips, but you can also try some Finnish favorites like a reindeer sandwich or salmon soup. Good service and decent prices.
Warm up in a sauna
Finland is well-known for its sauna culture. There are public saunas you can visit in Finland, but we found an Airbnb with its own private sauna. It was nice to warm up after a cold day. If I was cold in October, I can’t imagine how much the Finns enjoy saunas in the thick of winter!
Go dog sledding with Bearhill Husky
Listen: I am a cat person through and through. So when my sister wanted to go dog sledding, I said, okay we’ll do it for the experience, but don’t tell my kitty. And our Autumn Born to Run Morning Tour with Bearhill Husky ended up being a highlight of our Finland itinerary! It certainly would’ve been magical to go dog sledding in the snow. But since we were there early October, it was Finland’s off season. However, we still had an amazing time on the karts.
Our morning started out with a taxi pickup included with the cost of the experience. We arrived at the property, where they provided arctic outer clothing so that we’d be nice and warm. Then our guide gave us an introduction and showed us how we’d operate the two-person karts. Since autumn is off season for the dogs, they use this period to train newer dogs and build muscle. We took turns steering the kart, and the guides were right there to help lead the newer dogs. It was exhilarating to ride through the Finnish forest led by cute huskies. After our 4km ride, we went to see where they train and feed the dogs. They take good care of the dogs; the dogs’ cages are literally larger than my studio apartment in France. (I wish I were kidding!!) Then we enjoyed warm berry juice and cookies around the fire in the teepee. Our guide was so knowledgeable and passionate about the whole experience. I cannot recommend Bearhill Husky enough!
Taqueria Yuca
I really don’t get it either. You’re in the Arctic Circle and looking for a good restaurant in Rovaniemi. And for some reason, one of the best rated restaurants on TripAdvisor was a Mexican restaurant. We trusted the good reviews and were pleasantly surprised by our copious burrito bowls. I’ve seen a lot of bad Mexican food in Europe, but I actually quite enjoyed Taqueria Yuca in Rovaniemi. The service was incredible, and the food hit the spot.
Café & Bar 21
Literally connected to Taqueria Yuca, this cute restaurant is also a great pick for your stay in Rovaniemi. We ate at Yuca and then popped over to Café & Bar 21 for dessert since gelato is their sweet spot. If you have a hankering for savory waffles, salads or soup, then Café & Bar 21 will fit the bill. I was delighted by all their gluten-free pastries, including my Oreo cupcake.
See the Northern Lights
There are so many beautiful things to see in Finland, but you’ll definitely want to try to see the Northern Lights. It’s best to travel up, well, north in order to see them, as they’re rarely seen around Helsinki. The Northern Lights are typically visible between August and April, per Visit Finland. But you need clear skies to best see them. You can track aurora weather forecasts here.
My friend had seen the Northern Lights with Arctic Adventure Tours. They keep an eye on the forecast and coordinate with the aurora and your schedule. What makes them different is that you don’t pay if you don’t see the Northern Lights. They drive up to 700 km to “chase” the lights with your group, and professional photography is included. My sister and I stayed in Rovaniemi two nights, and it just so happened that Arctic Adventure had luck with the Northern Lights the day before we arrived. I was crushed that we missed them by a day! But the guy from Arctic Adventure kept me posted and followed the weather closely just in case it cleared up. Unfortunately, it didn’t pan out, but we didn’t lose any money. And it just means I have to plan another trip 🙂
What’s complicated is that outside of Santa Claus Village and snow activities, there isn’t a ton to do in Lapland. So it’s a bit of a gamble to see the Northern Lights in regards to the aurora weather and the length of your stay.
Brush up on Finnish culture at the Arktikum
A cheap flight deal brought us to Finland. I knew next to nothing on Finnish history or culture. I was extremely bummed that our Northern Lights tour didn’t pan out. But that gave us some extra time, so we decided to visit the Arktikum. I honestly didn’t expect much from this museum/science center in a small Finnish village. But the Arktikum ended up surprising me. We learned about Finland’s complicated history of being sandwiched between Sweden and Russia. They had great exhibitions on how Finland was affected during World War II as well as the different tribal cultures represented in Finland. The museum was interesting, interactive and well-done. I was bummed that we had to speed up our visit because the museum was about to close.
Porvoo
You’ve explored urban life in Helsinki and the countryside of Rovaniemi. But now it’s time to explore the darling Finnish village life in Porvoo. This town is a simple hour-long bus ride from Helsinki. We spent about half a day in Porvoo. And in retrospect, I wish we would’ve spent more time. This town is adorable and so photogenic.
Brunch at Zum Beispiel
We started our time in Porvoo with brunch reservations at Zum Beispiel. My sister opted for brunch, but I was tempted by a burger on the lunch menu. We couldn’t finish our plates! The portions were large, and the food was great. I was also so happy that they had ample gluten-free options. I so badly wanted to try their gluten-free chocolate cake, but my tummy was exceedingly full. So, we walked around the town, and I came back later for the cake!
Wander the Porvoo Museum
When in this darling village, you can explore the Porvoo Museum, which consists of several smaller buildings. As part of the museum experience, you’ll have access to the Holm House, the home of a wealthy merchant dating back to the 18th century. Explore the history of Porvoo as you walk through its Old Town Hall. Plan ahead as this museum has limited hours and isn’t open on Mondays or Tuesdays.
Window shop in downtown Porvoo
This town has a bunch of cute little shops that you can browse. My sister and I loved Cococo, a lifestyle store with the coolest animal-themed rugs. I wish we would’ve had more time to browse and window shop.
Admire the Porvoo Cathedral
Head up the hill toward the Porvoo Cathedral and admire the beautiful views of Porvoo with its traditional red houses. This 15th century cathedral has a dramatic history with it being burned down multiple times and even being bombed. You’d never guess given its beautiful exterior and ornate interior.
Budgeting tips
Listen: the words budgeting and Finland don’t really belong in the same sentence. Finland is expensive. If you start planning your trip to Finland, you’ll notice that very quickly. There are ways to be savvy, but the reality is Finland isn’t a budget vacation. I wouldn’t change it; our trip was wonderful. However, there are several ways to save money during your trip to Finland.
We didn’t do an entire week in Finland; our trip was Saturday to Thursday. I hesitated taking the Friday off, but in the end, for budget’s sake, I’m glad I didn’t. We stayed in Airbnbs for the entirety of our trip and found some good deals. By staying in Airbnbs and taking the overnight train one evening, we were able to budget well for lodging.
To save money on food, we headed to the grocery store. I loved exploring Finnish supermarkets and adored their gluten-free muffin selection. As for getting around Finland, my best advice for Helsinki is to download the HSL app. We opted for the public transportation day pass, which proved much cheaper than buying single tickets. In Rovaniemi, public transportation is minimal. And Uber didn’t operate there at the time of our trip. We used Taxi Lähitaksi Rovaniemi during our time in Lapland. I liked that we could call and book ahead of time. That came in handy when we had to get to the airport for our 5:45 a.m. flight. However, be wary of taxi prices; it becomes expensive real fast. And unfortunately, there’s not much alternative, so be sure to budget accordingly.
What surprised me about Finland
I didn’t know much about the country before planning my grand Finland itinerary. During my trip, there were several things that surprised me. Here’s a roundup of my overall impressions.
Gluten-free options
Being gluten-intolerant, I can sometimes be a bit difficult while traveling. But in Helsinki, Rovaniemi and Porvoo, I had zero problem. On virtually every menu, they add the following descriptions to their meals: G (gluten-free), L (lactose-free), etc. I never went hungry and even found a gluten-free bakery with korvapuusti, or cinnamon rolls!
Tough exterior, kindest heart
On the outside, the Finnish are reserved and may not seem friendly. But the truth is they are some of the kindest people you’ll meet. My keys were jammed in the door, and a lady came and help me. When I was in the restaurant car on the train, a woman sat near me because there weren’t any spots available elsewhere. We ended up talking for about 30 minutes, and she offered her best recommendations and answered our questions about Finnish culture. The museum employees in a small Finnish village shared their favorite places to visit, the waitress shared her best spot for views. I could go on! The Finnish landscape was gorgeous, but I so enjoyed speaking with the Finnish people I met, too.
Ice cubes, please!
French people love to make fun of me for my love of all things cold, ice cubes, A/C, etc. Heading up to a Nordic country, I was shocked when they served us carafes of water with ice cubes at multiple restaurants. Even when it’s quite cold outside, too!
Finland isn’t small
My sister and I chose Finland more or less randomly. What I didn’t realize is how big the surface area is. We booked flights to Helsinki but also wanted to see Lapland and the Arctic Circle. Our night train from Helsinki up to Rovaniemi was 12 hours! And you can go even farther north than this town. Although not densely populated (5.5 million inhabitants), Finland is a big country and is almost as big as the state of Montana.
Finnish off season
We booked our trip in Finland’s off season, meaning we ran into very few tourists. We even had museum rooms to ourselves during our visits. It was so uncrowded and so delightful. (Such a big change from France, the most visited country in the world.) And out of the tourists we encountered, Americans were barely on the map. I overheard some American English once or twice during the trip; otherwise, it was Nordic + Scandinavian locals or tourists from Europe or Asia.
Blondes everywhere!
Being blonde is certainly a stereotype for the Nordic and Scandinavian countries. And let me tell you: I have never seen so many natural blondes in my life. (My hair meant I fit in quite well and people I assumed that I was Finnish and therefore understood Finnish). It’s a small detail, but the sea of blondes was quite noticeable.
Sweets galore!
I knew Finland was known for its hearty foods like reindeer, potatoes and fish. But I was surprised to see their immense candy selection. We went to the movie theater, and there were probably hundreds of plastic containers of different candies. Grab a bag, fill it, weigh it and pay by the kilo. The grocery stores often had a similar set-up. Finland also is known for its berries, which you can find at its markets and in many juices. I loved my raspberry juice box and am sad that I’ve never seen this elsewhere.
No lock, no problem
Living and working in big cities in France, I always have an eye on my stuff. In France, someone ran off with my purse and someone chased him down to get it back. Another time, I dropped my phone, and despite immediately noticing, it was stolen. In Finland, oh contraire! I felt so safe and secure. When we did our husky tour, the guide said we could leave our belongings in the cabin during the visit. I asked if he would lock the building. He chuckled and said, “No, it’s Finland.”
Final Finland itinerary tips
I am delighted that it was one good flight deal that led me to discover the riches of Finland. This country is so beautiful and has so much to be explored, whether in remote Lapland or urban Helsinki. It’s not the most budget-friendly destination, but with some thoughtful planning, it can be done. And it’s so worth it! Discover this culture marked by its warmth and its breathtaking landscapes. I wonder what next good deal I’ll find…